To dip or not to dip...

I

IdCoyote

New member
I've got an ugly .243 that's in need of some refinishing and I was trying to decide between having a water transfer camo dip done or a cerakote finish put on it...what's your guys' experience with the durability of each? Anyone know of any good places in southern Idaho where I can get either done? And last of all, do the camo dips come out with a glossy finish? That's one concern and one reason I'm thinking cerakote all though I think a Kings camo Desert Shadow dip would look pretty darn good on the old girl. Thanks...
 
Cerakote all metal parts its more durable and have the stock dipped. I used hydro-dip in Idaho for my AR, it's in the mail enroute to my house right now so can't comment to much on its turn out. I got it with a matte clear coat.
 
I had the stock and barrel dipped on my ruger american and absolutly love it, you can pick what clear finish they spray on, i chose flat and there isn't any glare at all. I also have the tc venture predator and it comes dipped from the factory and it has been very durable.
 
Originally Posted By: koomanI had the stock and barrel dipped on my ruger american and absolutly love it, you can pick what clear finish they spray on, i chose flat and there isn't any glare at all. I also have the tc venture predator and it comes dipped from the factory and it has been very durable.

That's cool, I didn't know that you could pick your final coat texture on the dip. I thought it just came out of the dip a finished product...that'll make me lean towards dipping then, unless some one can talk me into the cerakote! Thanks for the input!
 
Originally Posted By: gregsI used RAHoffer in Wi and really like it

I was thinking of keeping it somewhat local so I wouldn't have to ship, but I'll check out their prices! Thanks for the heads up!
 
I'd cerakote the metal and KrylonKamo the stock. I think that gives more of a 'custom' look than using some trademarked camo pattern that every tom dick and harry has.
 
Originally Posted By: WyFoxCerakote all metal parts its more durable and have the stock dipped.

Yes,
Cerakote all of the metal. It's tough stuff.
Get the stock dipped in your favorite pattern that matches the Cerakote color, and have it sealed with a matte clear coat.
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I you are just going to dip the stock try doing it yourself with one of the many kits available. You pick the pattern and follow the super easy instructions. They give you a square yard or material which is enough to do several guns, bipods, scopes, etc.
http://www.timbersedgecamo.com/collections/all
http://www.mydipkit.com/index.html
Plenty of youtube videos to watch, it's super easy and you will like it better because you did it.

http://www.timbersedgecamo.com/pages/videos

Be warned.....it's addictive. You will end up dipping anything you can get your hands on. Tackle box, light switch covers...
 
I've decided to go the stock dip/cerakote metal route and had one last question for you all. Would you guys recommend cerakoting or dipping a scope or just leaving it alone? Is it a risky move or are they both pretty friendly processes to optics? My scope is nothing fancy, but it has been a solid performer for me...it's one of the original Ballistic-plex Burris Fullfield II's...what do you all recommend?
 
i personally feel that Cerakote is worthless. It easily scratches off. Had a muzzleloader with it, made cleaning the fouling off a lot harder because it stuck to its gritty texture.
 
While hydrodipping offers a variety of patterns and colors, most people that have done it seem to be disappointed by its lack of abrasion resistance.
I think dipping is an OK choice for stocks or plastic, but there are better choices for metal protection. And I do believe that you can final finish the product in gloss, or matte.
My first choice is Norrell's Moly Coat. I find it a good metal protection choice for a firearm. More of a phenolic based finish, it has great abrasion resistance, and pretty good chip resistance.
I am not a huge Cerakote fan (just a personal choice). While a fairly tough finish, it just doesn't hold up for me the way it has been advertised. (i personally believe that some of the issue is with the person that applied the finish. Make sure if you do go with Cerakote that the finisher is reputable and knows what they are doing). I like Duracoat also, one advantage is you can do it yourself, with pretty good results. If you leave it harden the 30 days, you should be GTG.
I have also heard great things about Birdsong T. As soon as my SBR project is done, we are going to give that a try.
 
Originally Posted By: RockyMtnHunteri personally feel that Cerakote is worthless. It easily scratches off. Had a muzzleloader with it, made cleaning the fouling off a lot harder because it stuck to its gritty texture.
Whoever did your Cerakote didn't prep it properly. Cerakote doesn't scratch off. I am a NIC certified refinisher and my stuff has been holding up for years without any noticeable wear.
 
Originally Posted By: mnshortdrawOriginally Posted By: RockyMtnHunteri personally feel that Cerakote is worthless. It easily scratches off. Had a muzzleloader with it, made cleaning the fouling off a lot harder because it stuck to its gritty texture.
Whoever did your Cerakote didn't prep it properly. Cerakote doesn't scratch off. I am a NIC certified refinisher and my stuff has been holding up for years without any noticeable wear.

That's good to hear about the cerakote's durability, I was starting to have my doubts. What's your opinion of cerakoting a scope? Is it too tough of a process to gamble on damaging your optics? Thanks.
 
Cerakoting a Scope or synthetic stock is a no. Cerakote, Norrels and a few others need to heat cure. Duracote or Krylon would be better options. JMHO
 
I purchased the dip kit from the timber's edge site and did my Super X-2 in a "shadow grass" about 3 years ago and it's still holdin up good. It gets thrown around in blinds and boats all season long and still looks good to me. I did mine in the bathtub. lol
 
Originally Posted By: In2b8uCerakoting a Scope or synthetic stock is a no. Cerakote, Norrels and a few others need to heat cure. Duracote or Krylon would be better options. JMHO

Thanks for the response, looks like I'll attempt a duracoat or krypton job on the scope. I appreciate all who have offered advice and experience! I'll be dipping the stock and cerakoting the rest. Thanks guys and happy trails!
 
Scopes can be done with air cure Cerakote or Duracote. Both take a long time to cure to the point where it won't scratch. A good option for optics is Krylon. If it wears, you can strip it off with acetone or thinner and re spray.
 


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