Originally Posted By: knockemdownOriginally Posted By: skinneyeven though your scope may be zero'd at 200 yards, you still have the elevation "used" to obtain that 200yd zero, what i'm saying is, although it may take you less minutes to get to 500 with a 200yd zero, you WILL run out of elevation just as fast as you did using a 100yd zero...
exactly.
CT, this is why you see alot of 'long range' rifles that have a canted base for the scope to mount on.
A canted base automatically puts your scope at a deficit with regard to DOWN adjustment. That deficit in DOWN adjustment allows you to have MORE UP ADJUSTMENT available in your turret.
For example, say, in a pefect world with easy math, your scope has 100MOA total in elevation travel.
And let's assume that with your scope zeroed on your rifle with a 0 degree (flat base), you have exactly 50 MOA UP and 50MOA DOWN elevation. IE, the scope is perfectly in the middle of it's available erector travel...
OK, now take that SAME combo, but mount that scope on a 20MOA canted base atop the rifle.
NOW, after zeroing the rifle & scope again, thanks to that extra angle from the canted base, you'll only have 30 MOA DOWN travel left on your scope. The 20 MOA base 'used up' that amount of travel to get you back on zero.
BUT, (to the benefit to us long range shooters) there is now 70 MOA of UP travel now useable in the scope from that new zero point
Another benefit to using a canted base is that as you dial that UP elevation on longer shots, you are moving the scope through the middle of it's erector travel. Which is much more forgiving on the internals, kinda like not having to go too hard over on your steering wheel to make a U-turn...
make sense?
+1
Let me add one thing. I use a 1 inch grid chart to check the scope. To see if it moves what I dope. I put my laser bore finder in first and then start turning. It will show if your scope is sticking.