Uniform primer pockets ?????

Yes, my Savage 204 and 223 both shoot well below moa, and yes I uniform the primer pockets on the new brass and deburr the flasholes. I don't know it if makes a great deal of difference, but I control as many variables as possible for consistency every time.

I use the Stainless media and tumbler for cleaning so my primer pockets are always super clean every time.
 
Yes Trapshooter12, several of my rifles shoot well under 1 moa, and yes there are days when I have an off day and yes I also miss some shoots, I have noone but myself to blame. I have been buying guns that will shoot better than I am capable of sometimes, but hunting and shooting are my only hobbies.
 
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Originally Posted By: TrapShooter12I have to ask all of you guys that go to all of this trouble with cases. Are you capable of shooting MOA or less with your Rifle. If not I believe for a hunting rig you are wasting your time. Especially with a Factory Rifle.

When shooting HP rifle competition, I did it all; neck turning cases & sorting brass to achieve minimum bullet runout, flash hole deburring/pocket reaming, but this was for match grade rifles, not out of the box factory rifles. For the most part, 300 yards or less, I don't think it made any difference other than the mental aspect of knowing that the ammunition I was shooting would put the bullet exactly where I pointed the rifle.

At 600 yards and beyond, bullet runout can cost you points but not sure that the other end of the cartridge really matters that much and I do not do anything other than clean primer pockets for my hunting rifles, which are all moa rifles (With the exception of a 375 h&h that is still a work in progress @ 1.25 moa. and an M1 carbine which is hopeless
smile.gif
).

Regards,
hm

 
Originally Posted By: hm1996Originally Posted By: TrapShooter12I have to ask all of you guys that go to all of this trouble with cases. Are you capable of shooting MOA or less with your Rifle. If not I believe for a hunting rig you are wasting your time. Especially with a Factory Rifle.

When shooting HP rifle competition, I did it all; neck turning cases & sorting brass to achieve minimum bullet runout, flash hole deburring/pocket reaming, but this was for match grade rifles, not out of the box factory rifles. For the most part, 300 yards or less, I don't think it made any difference other than the mental aspect of knowing that the ammunition I was shooting would put the bullet exactly where I pointed the rifle.

At 600 yards and beyond, bullet runout can cost you points but not sure that the other end of the cartridge really matters that much and I do not do anything other than clean primer pockets for my hunting rifles, which are all moa rifles (With the exception of a 375 h&h that is still a work in progress @ 1.25 moa. and an M1 carbine which is hopeless
smile.gif
).

Regards,
hm



There is nothing wrong with wanting to do all that work to ones cases. It becomes a labor of love. But, to many people get wrapped up in this stuff and they own the cheapest rifle with the cheapest glass and stock they can get and then spend hours trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear.

Alot of the stuff people worry about with a factory rifle is un-necessary since they are not trying to wring out a .001 group for a win. Some of these people even after doing all of this work to a case is happy with a Minute of Dinner plate groups at a hundred yards.

I have two factory rifles one is a Rem 223 in an HS stock that I use to hunt Coyotes with. It will shoot 1/2 min groups at two hundred yards. I don't do any work to the cases at all. My second rifle is a 308 in an HS stock with glasses on it that cost more than the rifle and I do all the work with the cases and it is maybe an MOA rifle.
If I try to reach the lands in this rifle with the 175's I shoot, the bullet barely seats in the case because the throat is so deep. If I wasn't shooting out to a thousand yards with this rifle I wouldn't worry about the cases.
 
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