VORTEX 4-16X44 HS LR HELP

Originally Posted By: HedgeHangtime -

I have the same style rings and you have the idea right.

SledAgent is new to the game and trying to understand scope adjustment, MOA etc. You gave him a good tip on getting more elevation control.

Well thanks a lot for the positive feedback. I know Sled is fairly new to the game, which is one reason I want to try to help him.

At least one person thinks my idea will work. Anyone else to agree, or disagree?

Sled, you're looking at about a $70.00 plus shipping "fix" for the Burris Signature Zee Rings AND the inserts. As an aside, you gotta have BOTH the rings and polymer inserts for this to work. You might try and find out how much offset you need in the inserts, as IIRC Burris offers different degrees of offset.

I'm not smart enough to give you that answer.

Hangtime
 
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Most scopes with normal rings and standard bases will get most rifles out to about the 500yd range. This is just a rule of thumb and of course some differ.

His scope has 70 moa and should be able to do the job without any problems. A one piece base and a pack of shims is a cheap way to gain most elevation needs without having to go to a 20-30-40 moa base. I use both styles and they both work the same.
 
I'm just not all that happy with the 1/2 moa, Help me understand the hash marks on the LR reticle? I was also told i could range find with this reticle I'm not sure?
Will it be better to sight it in at 100yds or just dial them in to keep my shots as close to bull as i can.
 
SledAgent -

The horizontal hashmarks are 2 MOA apart. The vertical hashmarks are 1.5, 4.5, and 7.5 MOA from the main horizontal and 11 MOA from the main horizontal line to where reticle changes width at the bottom. The distance between hash 1 and 2 is 3 MOA; between 2 and 3 is also 3 MOA.

The subtension of the thin part of the reticle is .08 MOA and the thick part is .25 MOA thick.

To range with it, you can use the horizontal or vertical hash marks.

Say you spot a coyote and put the cross hair on him. Average length of a coyote is 36" (w/o tail). Say he spans 2 hashmarks. At 2 MOA per hashmark, that's 4 MOA.
Multiply 36" x 100 and divide by the MOA he spans. The range will be approx. 900 yds.

That help?
 
How do i properly due a box test with my scope?
And when i site my gun in at 100yds should i be dead on bull or 1/2min off also while sighting in would it be better to use the Harris bipod,sandbags or bench rest pod? please feel free to add any tip for me sighting in vs making decent groups.
I really don't understand why everyone is telling me that i need to do the box test.
THANKS GUYZ
 
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Box test is a simple to find with Google and Youtube. Remember if your doing a box test you need to keep the rifle perfectly still and in one place. Two people helps as you hold and shoot the rifle and the other turns the knobs.

Whatever range you sight in at you should be as close to the X as you can! When you got it sighted in make sure you shoot with the same setup you use while hunting to verify your still dead on.

When I shoot for groups it is mostly with a bipod and a rear bag.
 
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Box test is done with a zeroed rile and same ammunition zeroed with. You move your turrets the same # of clicks UP, Right, Down, and Left; and should have your 5th round be right on top of your first. Shoot one round every 10 clicks at 100yds and all your bullet should impact on/around a square. If you use grid paper, even easier to see the "box". Just be sure to be consistent and always use same aiming point. Works best to use a square. Align your crosshair/reticle on a corner of the same square for every shot.


As far as zeroing your rifle; look at a loading manual to see the optimal Battle Sight Zero. With .308win you might have a 2" rise from 50yds to a 2" drop at 225/250yds. You're looking for a minimum variance of bullet impact over most yardage. Maybe your reticle is designed for 100yd zero, or your turrets are marked/calibrated? If you look at some ballistic plotting software you can tailor the velocity of your ammo to the reticle; IF you handload...

1/2" turret movements aren't a problem. If you intend to place your bullet through a buttonhole at 900 yds, then you'll have issues.

What really matters in pursuit of precision and accuracy is your scope base and mounts. Learn to work the Viper HS with a great mount system like Near Mfg and you will have gear you'll never need to replace. Pick up a deal on last year's Scope Du Jour on the Hide and you'll know how to use what you upgrade to.

In this realm, what matters even more is your camo, scent-masking, and ability to call/lure/bait the varmints you want to shoot. Not like you have to be within .25" of point of aim every shot you take; not unless you are shooting starlings at 300 yds.

Enjoy your scope!
 
Ok guys I know you told me to go out and shoot but I spoke with Scott from Vortex and he told me they would swap my 1/2 turrets out on my HS/LR for 1/4 turrets as soon as I send the scope to them.Can you help me figure this out what turret would i need to get to match the BDC reticle If there not willing to swap out the reticle also, but if they are willing to swap out the reticle my choices will probably be between the 2 PST reticle which are the EBR-1MOA or EBR-1MRAD, so I need you to tell me how should I go about this and what would be the most beneficial for me I get one chance at this and I need you to help me not screw it up .It will pretty much be a PST W/O the illumination.What are the differences between the reticles.
THANK YOU
 
Im pretty sure swapping the turrets wont change the 1/2 adjustments the scope is built for. Why just return the scope and buy the pst of your choice?
 
Originally Posted By: 1badsheeIm pretty sure swapping the turrets wont change the 1/2 adjustments the scope is built for. Why just return the scope and buy the pst of your choice?
I was thinking that they were speaking on swapping the gear under the turret cap to make it 1/4 clicks not just the cap. sorry i may have said it incorrectly
 
Here are the 2 reticles with subtensions.

The smallest increment on the MOA reticle is 2 MOA. That means you'll have to visually divide the 2 MOA hash marks by 8ths to range any tighter than that.

http://www.vortexoptics.com/uploads /sub_pst_f_4-16x50_ebr1_moa.jpg

The smallest increment on the MRAD is .2 mil at the ends and .5 towards the middle. I find visually dividing into 5ths or 10ths easier.

http://www.vortexoptics.com/uploads/sub_pst_f_4-16x50_ebr1_mrad.jpg

If you plan on using 1/4 MOA turrets, stick with a MOA reticle. Mixing turret and reticle calibration just adds to the complexity of ranging.
 
I spoke with to Vortex today they updated me that I would have to keep the bdc reticle but they would change my turret to 1/4moa or a .1 mil if I would like.I'm not sure.
 
Have you tried contacting vortex? They may just trade you. I'm sure they'd do just about anythin save giving them away for free to please a customer

Post written on ambien...so excuse any craziness you see.
 
Vortex is putting pst 1/4 MIN turrets in my 4-16x44 hs/lr will this change my hold under and over points since they were put there to work with 1/2 moa will it make them hold over closer once sighted in?
 
Finally got my scope back with having a situation with the girl in Vortex customer services shipping about my scope being shipped with out a signature upon release and just left on my steps and was not there once I got home{STOLEN}.It took Doug from Camera Land to call and speak with Joe H.about what happen and I assumed explaining to him that spending $4 extra with fed-ex for signature release on customers merchandise is much cheaper and secures the customers investment during shipment than replacing merchandise.
But I did get my 1/2turrets swapped out for PST 1/4 turrets they are awesome.
Just for the record Doug is one awesome guy especially for helping me with the problem I had AND knowing I didn't even purchase the scope from Camera Land.
 


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