What 22-250 twist do I want?
- Thread starter Sogan
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Winny Fan
New member
Originally Posted By: skinneyOriginally Posted By: SoganCoyote gun with a Zeus prefit. Probably factory ammo only and more than likely I’ll be shooting the 50-55gr rounds as I want the flattest shooting round possible with still being able to fight the wind a little bit and it’s tough to find factory ammo in higher grains. Open corn fields around here so wind can vary quite a bit from day to day. Am I looking at the right grain of bullets and if so that twist do I want for those? 1:12? 1:14?
Easy answer, 14 twist. If you're running factory, and will be going 50-55 grain, go standard, 1-14. IF your going to be reloading and want to run something a little heavier and want options, go with a quicker prefit, 10 or even 8 twist. I've been running an 8 twist for quite a few years and have had absolutely no issues with accuracy out of 50 grain jacketed bullets.
Good advice.
Easy answer, 14 twist. If you're running factory, and will be going 50-55 grain, go standard, 1-14. IF your going to be reloading and want to run something a little heavier and want options, go with a quicker prefit, 10 or even 8 twist. I've been running an 8 twist for quite a few years and have had absolutely no issues with accuracy out of 50 grain jacketed bullets.
Good advice.
Winny Fan
New member
Originally Posted By: skinneyOriginally Posted By: SoganCoyote gun with a Zeus prefit. Probably factory ammo only and more than likely I’ll be shooting the 50-55gr rounds as I want the flattest shooting round possible with still being able to fight the wind a little bit and it’s tough to find factory ammo in higher grains. Open corn fields around here so wind can vary quite a bit from day to day. Am I looking at the right grain of bullets and if so that twist do I want for those? 1:12? 1:14?
Easy answer, 14 twist. If you're running factory, and will be going 50-55 grain, go standard, 1-14. IF your going to be reloading and want to run something a little heavier and want options, go with a quicker prefit, 10 or even 8 twist. I've been running an 8 twist for quite a few years and have had absolutely no issues with accuracy out of 50 grain jacketed bullets.
An inherently accurate bullet can't be spun too fast to affect its accuracy. Only when it starts to deform or come apart due to imparted spin will it become inaccurate.
Easy answer, 14 twist. If you're running factory, and will be going 50-55 grain, go standard, 1-14. IF your going to be reloading and want to run something a little heavier and want options, go with a quicker prefit, 10 or even 8 twist. I've been running an 8 twist for quite a few years and have had absolutely no issues with accuracy out of 50 grain jacketed bullets.
An inherently accurate bullet can't be spun too fast to affect its accuracy. Only when it starts to deform or come apart due to imparted spin will it become inaccurate.
WyoBull
Active member
A 22-250 with a 1:8 or 1:10 twist, in my mind, might as well be a 243 Win. Not saying at all that any support for a faster twist 22-250 is wrong, but if you want to shoot a 50-55 gr bullet and also want to shoot something heavier in the 70-100 grain category, my pick would be just a standard 243 Win.
I guess my mindset, after being a 220 Swift shooter for 40+ years, is to shoot the bullet weight the rifle was intended for. I picked up a 243 Win this past year after overlooking it for many years and it would be my choice if I were starting over with just one main caliber.
I guess my mindset, after being a 220 Swift shooter for 40+ years, is to shoot the bullet weight the rifle was intended for. I picked up a 243 Win this past year after overlooking it for many years and it would be my choice if I were starting over with just one main caliber.
Terry Lightle
Active member
If there was 1 rate of twist better than all others in every instance there would be only 1 in on the market.They all have the place where they shine.I have had 2 22-250 rifles since about 1981 and both were 14 twist.Have gotten along well with 55 grain bullets and Varget powder.Have 1 now which is a Tikka.Would not be without a 22-250 to coyote hunt with.Am not 1 with a bunch of guns as only have my 250 and a 223 with 8 twist for heavier bullets if desired which really shoots 62 grainers well.WyoBull has given good advice above.
skinney
Director
Originally Posted By: WyoBullA 22-250 with a 1:8 or 1:10 twist, in my mind, might as well be a 243 Win. Not saying at all that any support for a faster twist 22-250 is wrong, but if you want to shoot a 50-55 gr bullet and also want to shoot something heavier in the 70-100 grain category, my pick would be just a standard 243 Win.
I guess my mindset, after being a 220 Swift shooter for 40+ years, is to shoot the bullet weight the rifle was intended for. I picked up a 243 Win this past year after overlooking it for many years and it would be my choice if I were starting over with just one main caliber.
I would respectfully disagree, simply because anytime you introduce a larger diameter projectile, especially with greater than or equal to velocities, you also introduce the opportunity for more damage, at an exponential rate.
If you plan to keep what you harvest, cartridge and bullet selection are key, but so is shot placement.
I'm not a koolaid drinker when it comes to bullets or cartridges, I've used the 223, the Swift, the 250, the 22 Creed, the 6 creed, the 243, even up into the 6.5s, with more powder and bullet recipe's than I care to rehearse.
Regarding performance, whether it's the inherent accuracy that can be multiplied with precision, if you're willing to build a custom and amalgamate a reload with it. OR it's the diameter of the bullet in conjunction with it's ability to cause instant hydrostatic shock, with minimal (in most cases) fur damage. The 22-250 has proven it's worthiness over, and over, and over, to me.
I guess my mindset, after being a 220 Swift shooter for 40+ years, is to shoot the bullet weight the rifle was intended for. I picked up a 243 Win this past year after overlooking it for many years and it would be my choice if I were starting over with just one main caliber.
I would respectfully disagree, simply because anytime you introduce a larger diameter projectile, especially with greater than or equal to velocities, you also introduce the opportunity for more damage, at an exponential rate.
If you plan to keep what you harvest, cartridge and bullet selection are key, but so is shot placement.
I'm not a koolaid drinker when it comes to bullets or cartridges, I've used the 223, the Swift, the 250, the 22 Creed, the 6 creed, the 243, even up into the 6.5s, with more powder and bullet recipe's than I care to rehearse.
Regarding performance, whether it's the inherent accuracy that can be multiplied with precision, if you're willing to build a custom and amalgamate a reload with it. OR it's the diameter of the bullet in conjunction with it's ability to cause instant hydrostatic shock, with minimal (in most cases) fur damage. The 22-250 has proven it's worthiness over, and over, and over, to me.
Winny Fan
New member
Years ago the late Bob Milek wrote an article in one of the gun magazines of the time. It was titled "The 22-250 Remington - Varmint Duster Supreme", or words very close to that. It was an excellent article at the time, and I'd bet that it caused more than one coyote hunter at the time to run out and buy a 22-250 if he didn't already have one. I was a poor college student at the time, so buying the magazine was a major effort on my part.
I think that I may have saved it, but most things like that in boxes got tossed years ago to make room for other things, like new babies.
I uh.....uh..., I Googled "Bob Milek Varmint Duster Supreme" but came up with nothing concerning the article. I hope me using Goggle, actually Duck Duck Go, to try to find a printed copy on the internet doesn't cause any undue concerns here.
While looking I did find a good link for old copies of Guns & Ammo magazine for anyone who might like reading old perspectives on shooting. G&A and Shooting Times were magazine leaders back then, and Milek wrote for both. The copies go back to 1984, but I'm pretty sure that the article was from a 1970's G&A. Not a hyperlink. Copy and paste.
https://www.thefreelibrary.com/Guns+%26+Ammo-p21565
I think that I may have saved it, but most things like that in boxes got tossed years ago to make room for other things, like new babies.
I uh.....uh..., I Googled "Bob Milek Varmint Duster Supreme" but came up with nothing concerning the article. I hope me using Goggle, actually Duck Duck Go, to try to find a printed copy on the internet doesn't cause any undue concerns here.
While looking I did find a good link for old copies of Guns & Ammo magazine for anyone who might like reading old perspectives on shooting. G&A and Shooting Times were magazine leaders back then, and Milek wrote for both. The copies go back to 1984, but I'm pretty sure that the article was from a 1970's G&A. Not a hyperlink. Copy and paste.
https://www.thefreelibrary.com/Guns+%26+Ammo-p21565
WyoBull
Active member
Originally Posted By: skinneyOriginally Posted By: WyoBullA 22-250 with a 1:8 or 1:10 twist, in my mind, might as well be a 243 Win. Not saying at all that any support for a faster twist 22-250 is wrong, but if you want to shoot a 50-55 gr bullet and also want to shoot something heavier in the 70-100 grain category, my pick would be just a standard 243 Win.
I guess my mindset, after being a 220 Swift shooter for 40+ years, is to shoot the bullet weight the rifle was intended for. I picked up a 243 Win this past year after overlooking it for many years and it would be my choice if I were starting over with just one main caliber.
I would respectfully disagree, simply because anytime you introduce a larger diameter projectile, especially with greater than or equal to velocities, you also introduce the opportunity for more damage, at an exponential rate.
If you plan to keep what you harvest, cartridge and bullet selection are key, but so is shot placement.
I'm not a koolaid drinker when it comes to bullets or cartridges, I've used the 223, the Swift, the 250, the 22 Creed, the 6 creed, the 243, even up into the 6.5s, with more powder and bullet recipe's than I care to rehearse.
Regarding performance, whether it's the inherent accuracy that can be multiplied with precision, if you're willing to build a custom and amalgamate a reload with it. OR it's the diameter of the bullet in conjunction with it's ability to cause instant hydrostatic shock, with minimal (in most cases) fur damage. The 22-250 has proven it's worthiness over, and over, and over, to me.
I don't disagree with you at all on your points, they are valid and accurate. My only suggestion to the OP was that if you were only to have one rifle to shoot heavy down to lighter bullets, then I would pick the 243 as an example over the standard 22-250 only because you can load from 100 gr bullets down to 50 gr bullets with the standard 1:10 twist 243 Win. Doing that would give him a rifle he could hunt with for deer down to varmints.
If he is keeping fur, then yes, the smaller diameter .224 bullet is going to win with the right powder and bullet combination. I will always favor my 220 Swift but the heaviest bullet I shoot out of it is 55 gr with my favorite being the Sierra 55 gr HPBT (#1390). With that bullet, if I hit center mass, I get no exits.
The fun thing about all these different calibers and bullets is there are many ways to skin the cat and it is fun experimenting with different ones.
I guess my mindset, after being a 220 Swift shooter for 40+ years, is to shoot the bullet weight the rifle was intended for. I picked up a 243 Win this past year after overlooking it for many years and it would be my choice if I were starting over with just one main caliber.
I would respectfully disagree, simply because anytime you introduce a larger diameter projectile, especially with greater than or equal to velocities, you also introduce the opportunity for more damage, at an exponential rate.
If you plan to keep what you harvest, cartridge and bullet selection are key, but so is shot placement.
I'm not a koolaid drinker when it comes to bullets or cartridges, I've used the 223, the Swift, the 250, the 22 Creed, the 6 creed, the 243, even up into the 6.5s, with more powder and bullet recipe's than I care to rehearse.
Regarding performance, whether it's the inherent accuracy that can be multiplied with precision, if you're willing to build a custom and amalgamate a reload with it. OR it's the diameter of the bullet in conjunction with it's ability to cause instant hydrostatic shock, with minimal (in most cases) fur damage. The 22-250 has proven it's worthiness over, and over, and over, to me.
I don't disagree with you at all on your points, they are valid and accurate. My only suggestion to the OP was that if you were only to have one rifle to shoot heavy down to lighter bullets, then I would pick the 243 as an example over the standard 22-250 only because you can load from 100 gr bullets down to 50 gr bullets with the standard 1:10 twist 243 Win. Doing that would give him a rifle he could hunt with for deer down to varmints.
If he is keeping fur, then yes, the smaller diameter .224 bullet is going to win with the right powder and bullet combination. I will always favor my 220 Swift but the heaviest bullet I shoot out of it is 55 gr with my favorite being the Sierra 55 gr HPBT (#1390). With that bullet, if I hit center mass, I get no exits.
The fun thing about all these different calibers and bullets is there are many ways to skin the cat and it is fun experimenting with different ones.
In todays world, the argument over fast twist vs slow twist, heavy bullets vs light bullets will probably never be solved. Kinda like Ford vs Chevy. It all depends on who your talking to and both will have good arguments. Actual answer is probably figure out what your doing with the rifle and what bullet you want to shoot and go from there. If it didn't work out, start over and quit worrying about what others think. Its your build and your money. When they start chipping in on the cost of the build then do it their way.
If you are going a custom barrel, then choose a gunsmith that has a reamer that matches the bullets you want to shoot.
Years ago, I had a Nationally known Benchrest gunsmith build a custom 22/250 using two 14T Shilen Varmint barrels, on a trued Rem 700.
Fast forward a year's wait.
I was Reloading the rounds, getting ready for the gun's first outing to the rifle range. I COULD NOT TOUCH THE LANDS WITH A 60G SIERRA! I checked the second barrel, same thing. DANG!
I had intended to shoot the Sierra 50g and 55g Sierra spt on coyotes. I called up the World Famous Gunsmith and chewed his Azz out! HE used a POS reamer on a custom build, and he dang well KNEW BETTER!!!
So, I worked up a load with 60g Sierra hp at 3500 fps. First coyote I called in, I had to shoot him 3 times due to bullets not expanding, max load of IMR 4350.
I sold the rifle, and all the bad memories associated with the rifle.
22's do not like a long bullet jump to the lands, with one excpetion I have found, the Sierra 55g Semi point, will jump a long ways and is a fantastic coyote hunting bullet for an AR due to mag length and long throat. Same for long throat or worn throats in the 220 Swifts and 22/250.
So, along with the conversation of twist rates, should be an equally important topic of Free Bore Amount!
Gunsmiths handle this issue in three ways:
A. they have one standard SAAMI spec reamer....you take your chances on the bullet being in the case neck where the bullet touches the lands
B. They have multiple reamers, Zero freebore, .020 Freebore, or .050 freebore, or other amounts
C. The most advanced gunsmiths will have a zero freebore reamer to a .020 Freebore reamer, and they also use a unithroater to throat to the customers dummy rounds that have been sent to him....what ever he charges is worth it.
I would choose C and never look back.
Nothing is more upsetting than having a gunsmith insist on truing your action, and then using a reamer on your high dollar custom barrel that does not match the bullets that you intend to use.
Of course, you have to educate yourself and follow through to achieve a more harmonious outcome with your gunsmith. BIG pay off relating to throat geometry comes when you have 1000 rounds on a barrel, vs brand new. Once you learn the basics in throat geometry, amazing accuracy follows.
Years ago, I had a Nationally known Benchrest gunsmith build a custom 22/250 using two 14T Shilen Varmint barrels, on a trued Rem 700.
Fast forward a year's wait.
I was Reloading the rounds, getting ready for the gun's first outing to the rifle range. I COULD NOT TOUCH THE LANDS WITH A 60G SIERRA! I checked the second barrel, same thing. DANG!
I had intended to shoot the Sierra 50g and 55g Sierra spt on coyotes. I called up the World Famous Gunsmith and chewed his Azz out! HE used a POS reamer on a custom build, and he dang well KNEW BETTER!!!
So, I worked up a load with 60g Sierra hp at 3500 fps. First coyote I called in, I had to shoot him 3 times due to bullets not expanding, max load of IMR 4350.
I sold the rifle, and all the bad memories associated with the rifle.
22's do not like a long bullet jump to the lands, with one excpetion I have found, the Sierra 55g Semi point, will jump a long ways and is a fantastic coyote hunting bullet for an AR due to mag length and long throat. Same for long throat or worn throats in the 220 Swifts and 22/250.
So, along with the conversation of twist rates, should be an equally important topic of Free Bore Amount!
Gunsmiths handle this issue in three ways:
A. they have one standard SAAMI spec reamer....you take your chances on the bullet being in the case neck where the bullet touches the lands
B. They have multiple reamers, Zero freebore, .020 Freebore, or .050 freebore, or other amounts
C. The most advanced gunsmiths will have a zero freebore reamer to a .020 Freebore reamer, and they also use a unithroater to throat to the customers dummy rounds that have been sent to him....what ever he charges is worth it.
I would choose C and never look back.
Nothing is more upsetting than having a gunsmith insist on truing your action, and then using a reamer on your high dollar custom barrel that does not match the bullets that you intend to use.
Of course, you have to educate yourself and follow through to achieve a more harmonious outcome with your gunsmith. BIG pay off relating to throat geometry comes when you have 1000 rounds on a barrel, vs brand new. Once you learn the basics in throat geometry, amazing accuracy follows.
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Winny Fan
New member
At the risk of getting more "road rash" here for saying this,
After that experience, if I'm having a rifle built, I probably ask too many questions about the reamer to be used and bullet seating to insure that I can get close to lands on both small caliber and larger caliber rifles too, with the bullet that I want to use.
Door #C for me every time. Except, when using my own, or a borrowed, known good reamer for my brass and bullet choice - most competent 'smiths can manage not to mess that up.
I know Keith knows this very, very well. But brass and reamer fit is as big a deal as throating. Have a chamber cut too small for your brass sometime and see if you don't agree. Or, too large.
And brass dimensions vary. Not just between makers, but between lots from the same maker. Sometimes, they vary quite a bit. 6BR cases, in the old days, were bad that way. You had to specify a Lapua reamer or a Norma reamer. But later, Lapua BR cases got smaller to fit Norma chambers. And so on, and so on...
- DAA
I know Keith knows this very, very well. But brass and reamer fit is as big a deal as throating. Have a chamber cut too small for your brass sometime and see if you don't agree. Or, too large.
And brass dimensions vary. Not just between makers, but between lots from the same maker. Sometimes, they vary quite a bit. 6BR cases, in the old days, were bad that way. You had to specify a Lapua reamer or a Norma reamer. But later, Lapua BR cases got smaller to fit Norma chambers. And so on, and so on...
- DAA