What's your least favorite reloading step and what have you done to make it easier or faster?

hm1996 said:

Formula for Lanolin and Alcohol Case Lubricant in Reloading​

A common and effective DIY case lube for reloading uses liquid lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol helps dissolve and evenly distribute the lanolin, while the lanolin provides a protective film on the case to prevent corrosion and sticking during sizing.

Recommended Ratios​

  • 1:4 to 1:5 ratio (1 part liquid lanolin : 4–5 parts 99% isopropyl alcohol) is widely used and works well Predator Masters+1.
    Example: 4 oz liquid lanolin + 16–20 oz 99% isopropyl alcohol.
  • Some reloaders prefer 12:1 (12 parts alcohol : 1 part lanolin) for a thinner, less gummy feel Ammo Guru+1.
  • Others use 10:1 to 16:1 depending on desired tackiness and ease of cleaning ar15.com.

Preparation Steps​

  1. Gather supplies:
    • Liquid lanolin (pure, no additives)
    • 99% isopropyl alcohol (not 70% rubbing alcohol or 91% with high water content)
    • Spray bottle with measurement markings
    • Small bowl or cup
    • Warm water (for warming ingredients) Ammo Guru+1
  2. Warm the ingredients(optional but helpful):
    • Place the lanolin bottle in warm water (~105–110°F) for several minutes to soften it.
    • Warm the alcohol bottle in the same water bath.
    • Do not heat over an open flame — isopropyl alcohol is highly flammable Predator Masters+1.
  3. Mix:
    • Pour the alcohol into the spray bottle first.
    • Add the measured lanolin (e.g., 1 oz for 12 oz alcohol if using 12:1 ratio).
    • Mix thoroughly. If using a 1:4–1:5 ratio, add more alcohol to reach the target volume.
  4. Cool and store:
    • Let the mixture cool to room temperature, mixing occasionally as it cools.
    • Store in an airtight container to prevent water absorption from the air Predator Masters+1.

Application Tips​

  • Apply a light, even coat to cases before sizing.
  • Let the alcohol evaporate (~5 minutes) before resizing Predator Masters.
  • Properly lubed cases should feel slightly greasy but not slimy.
  • Use sparingly — the lube can stay tacky for a long time Shooters' Forum.
Example DIY batch (12:1 ratio):
  • 12 oz 99% isopropyl alcohol
  • 1 oz liquid lanolin
  • Mix in a spray bottle, let cool, and store.
This method is inexpensive, effective, and avoids the mess of commercial lubes while providing good corrosion protection and smooth sizing Ammo Guru+2.
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THANKS for the recipe... definitely be trying it. :)
 
Nothing about reloading I do like. I'm not a real patient guy but am forced to when reloading.

Handling. 17 cal bullets is a real pain.
 
shoots100 said:
I have two.
Fireforming and Neck sizing.
So I eliminated wildcat cartridges that need fire forming and neck sizing until I got weak and decided to take on a .14 Fireball project that I've had in the works before covid hit that's going to require neck sizing.
Since it's has a little bittie neck I'm willing to look the other way.
SJC
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This sounds interesting
 
Brass prep aka cleaning, trimming, chamfer and deburring, but it has to be done.

I use Lee Collet Dies for every rifle cartridge I load for, and that, of course, eliminates the 'wax on, wax off' procedure.
 
Trimming. Took the handle off of my rcbs trimmer and chucked up a 1/2 DeWalt drill instead. Built a small wood track for the drill to slide back and forth without binding up the trimmer.
Case lube. I use royal case and die lube. Just a small plastic container full of brass and give it a spray and shake it around to coat the brass and it's ready to load.
 
I don't' do any brass prep. Except for the occasional situation where I'm making a wildcat case from another one and some trimming or forming is needed. But almost all the brass for almost all my rifles have never been trimmed. It's not needed. Never been cleaned. Serves no purpose. Never been deburred or chamfered. What is the point?

- DAA
 
DAA said:
I don't' do any brass prep. Except for the occasional situation where I'm making a wildcat case from another one and some trimming or forming is needed. But almost all the brass for almost all my rifles have never been trimmed. It's not needed. Never been cleaned. Serves no purpose. Never been deburred or chamfered. What is the point?

- DAA
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no initial chamfer and debur? I at least do it to virgin brass. my brass prep is done in the beginning, which for some rifles is a neck turn depending on its purpose. I don't worry about the primer pockets or flash holes. just a K&M mandrel expand and a K&M cutting tool that is pre set for that caliber. I just order a new K&M cutting tool and only set them once for each caliber. if I need more 6mm brass. The cutter is already set and cuts the same as whatever the last 6mm I cut regardless of the cartridge. pitch the cutter in the drawer and often times its years before its ever used again. but if I need more cases because of being reckless in the field and throwing them around and case attrition from running too hot of loads or loss after a few years, the cutter is already set to cut another batch exactly the same. The bushings end up being close or the same between calibers, too.

I tumble my brass sometimes, its depending on my mood and what rifle its for. Sometimes I just want some pimp daddy lookin cases, so I will throw them in the cob media and let it rip for a day or so. doesn't matter for shooting them, filthy gross or shinin like a diamond.
 
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