why do i need a fancy bow?

Back when I shot a compound I always used the 2219 with two blade Magnus heads. It was dead on out to 30 yards. The speed was maybe 240fps if I remember correctly. Not the fastest but it was quiet and I killed a lot of deer under 20 yards. I then switched to recurves and instinctive shooting. Fps was around 200 at best. No sights but razor sharp two blade fixed broad heads like Magnus, zwickey. Shot placement and sharp arrows that are spined correctly are critical. You don't need 340 fps to be a good bow hunter. The faster the speed the more your shooting imperfections will stand out. I never shot with release always fingers. But I realize these new compounds are so short you really don't have a choice. I've seen a lot guys at the range who are over bowed. And I can't help but laugh. They feel they need to shoot 65 or 70 lb bows in order to kill a deer. Then they struggle to pull it back cleanly with little movement. If you can't pull your bow straight back without raising your bow first, then your over bowed.
 
+1 Mark2. I see a lot of he men that are over bowed.

As long as you can shoot what you have accuratly and with consistancy thats all that matters. I have a 12yr old mathews z max that i shoot just as well as my 2011 EVO. The mathews is louder and slower but it has killed many deer.

The stinger is actually a decent bow. Its the indian that matters not the bow.
 
These guys are spot on. I want to reiterate their advice on SHARP broadheads. I shoot 100gr. 4 blade Muzzy heads. NEVER use blades twice, change them even if the arrow falls out of the tree and sticks in the dirt. Sharp blades in the ribs put them down, not the name on your limbs.
"I bet your deer will be alot deader than mine" -My dads words when I spent a whole paycheck on my bow-
 
Ok, thanks for the help all! At the price of rifle ammo I think I will just get real comfortable with the bow this summer, hopefully be able to get back to where I was and ready to hunt before next fall. Who knows maybe ill get some beater arrows and do some squirrel hunting with some rubber thumpers. See if I can't find some 3d ranges to try out as well.


What broadheads would you guys choose? Me and my dad are both looking for some and would both like to try and shoot the same. He has a bow that is a year newer than mine and its IBO speed is just a tad bit faster than mine but he's shooting a 60-70 lb bow at about 65 pounds.

Here's the 3 that I have been looking at, just reading reviews.

#1: magnus stingers with bleeder blades. Look decent, seem to get talked
about a lot I've read a few reviews that they do shoot better out of a slower bow.

#2: G5 Montec, get great reviews, I know my cousin has great luck with them. But my concern is if you miss your target or get a pass through shot, is it going destroy the broadhead? Is it something you just accept that you may only kill one animal with a broadhead?

#3: muzzy 3 blades, from the sounds if it they are a pain to tune, are they worth the extra effort? Can't you replacce both the tips and blades of the broadhead?

Lastly, do you guys sharpen your own broadheads? Have them sharpened? Or buy a set of hunting and a set of practice broad heads and buy new ones as the old hunting ones get dull?

Sorry for all the questions (and bad cell phone grammar). I just really want to get into archery more and really want to rekindle my interest in big game huting. Sort of lost interest in it for a couple years in high school but I want to get into it. Seeing how I've yet to take any big game with bow or rifle. < =O
 
I love the Muzzy 3 Blades. Never had much issue with them and have never really needed a lot of "tunning" THey fly a little different, but I set my pin to compensate (like 2" low at all ranges)...

Muzzy had practice blades that come with the tips. I really do not like shooting and targets with the real deal eats the target up really fast.

The most important aspect to archery for me has always been to not over complicate things, practice, and practice more... Tuning is somewhat overrated, many animals died long before tuning. In all honesty knowing your gear and shooting lots is the most important aspect.

And hey do not forget to practice...
 
Your rest is great and I've used one on 2 of my bows for years. It's simple and won't let you down. Muzzy's are also my favorite tip with 3 or 4 blade flying great. As far as your bow, it'll work just fine. Practice and only take shots that your sure of, and you'll have a great time. Here is a link to a great archery forum for questions even if your not shooting a Mathews. http://forums.mathewsinc.com/?sid=1725774bd238f294e419cf1bfd2809f2 Ask the same question over there that you did here, and they will give you some great info.
 
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Originally Posted By: the noobieSorry I couldn't think of the correct term but won't a faster bow shootheavier arrows and broadheads? And won't those heavier broadheads result in more energy transfered? In turn would cause it to be more traumatizing and lethal?

That's the whole philosophy I took when I got my bow but I figured the nicer release and sight would be better than a more expenesive bow with cheaper pacakge sights and components.

1) The heavier the draw a bow has, the heavier the arrow it requires. The minimum recommended ratio is 5grns of arrow weight for every pound of draw weight. A lot of hunters prefer 7grn/lb draw to improve penetration.

It doesn't work out QUITE exactly true, but it's pretty dang close that a bow with a minimum weight arrow for it's draw weight will shoot about the same speed, for example, a bow set at 60lbs will shoot a 300grn arrow about the same speed as it would set at 70lbs with a 350grn arrow. So no, lightening your draw doesn't necessarily mean you'll sacrifice speed or trajectory.

BUT! It does mean you'll sacrifice energy, which means you'll sacrifice effective range. Just like for a rifle, say a 150grn load in a .30-30 vs a .30-06, the more power you have behind your arrow as it leaves the bow, the more energy it will have down range, and the more effective killing range you will pick up.

Beyond that, a longer draw length will run faster and have more energy than a shorter draw, even for the same draw weight.

Then factor in bow efficiency as a new twist.

Do some reading up about power stroke curves and it might make more sense. Shoot me a PM if you want as much detail as you can swallow about it.

End of the day, just like a .30-30 vs a .30-06, sure, a .30-30 will kill a deer to 250yrds if you can shoot it well, so if you're the average hunter that never shoots past 100yrds you won't notice a difference between the two. But, if you're a hunter that shoots well to 600+, you indeed will notice the difference between the two except for recoil.

A 40lb bow pulling 22" running 220fps with a 300grn arrow will kill a deer at 20-30yrds, sure, but it's not likely to pass through, and 40yrds is no man's land. If you're a typical bow hunter that shoots well to 30 and never takes a long shot, you don't need much out of a bow except accuracy and smooth drawing. If you're a guy that can stack sticks at 40yrds and can kill watermelons at 80yrds, then you'll need enough speed to beat a deer's reaction time, and enough arrow weight to kill one when you connect that far.

The way I look at it, I don't have any problem drawing a 70lb hard cam slowly with a deer 20yrds away, and don't struggle to hold draw for a few minutes (well practiced), so I shoot a bow as heavy as I can handle well. Someday my shoulders are going to give out, probably sooner than I would like, and I'll start dialing my bows down when they do.
 
I've shot 2 bladed heads for quite a few years running magnus now. Another broadhead to consider is the thunderhead 125 I shot a bunch of deer with them through the years to.
I upgraded my bow a couple of years ago had been shooting a 1992 rh browning mirage and a lh pse about the same vintage. I ended up with a bass pro lh kryptic (bowtech black ice or real close to it). My wife calls it my hitech budget bow.
My only other advise is razor sharp head and shot placement
 
Years ago I was thinking about going bowhunting. I had a old ben pearson 50 lb bow that I bought from a friends dad for 5 bucks. Shot alot of carp with it.I took it to the "pro shop" and got the what do you want to hunt with that for? The compound's shoot faster, flatter and you can hit at 40 yards.Kind of urked me. So I upgraded by buying a 49# recurve off flea bay for fifty bucks, figuring I would upgrade to the compound next year. Well guess what I found great joy in shooting trad.I upgraded to a 61# predator hunter recurve. I can kick a basketball downhill and put a arrow through it.Three fingers under, off the shelf, with no sights.
 
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Check out Mission Bows by Mathews. A couple guys I hunt with are shooting the Eliminator 2 and they're great bows for the money. They discontinued them a couple years ago but they have newer models out now.

I'm going too test shoot the new ballistic they came out with for 2013 and see how it shoots. If I like it I'm having one ordered for the 2013 deer season.
 
Im gonna piggy back on most of what everyone here has said.

The first and formost thing is the shooter. YOU have to be able to shot where you intend to. Practice practice practice. There is a lot more to shooting than pulling it back and letting her fly. Learn the mechanics of shooting and you will be better off than 90% of archers out there.

The second most important thing is what is at the end of the arrow. SHARP SHARP SHARP! I shot trad so no mechanicals for me but IF I were to shoot compound again I would never use mechanical BHs. My first trad kill this year was on a button buck and hit two ribs. My arrow went through it like hot butter and stuck in the ground another 2 inches. For an interesting read on BHs look up Dr Asbell on his BH testing. He mainly did testing on african game. For what its worth I shoot bear razor backs that are 30 years old. I sharpen them until they scare the hair off my arm.

So it doe snto matter what bow you shoot it only matters how you shoot that bow.
 
It doesn't matter what bow you have. Shot placement the most important. if you can place your arrow where you want keep it. I'm part of archery club and there's a lot of our members that have old bows that shoot just as good as the new ones out there.
 
the best bow in the entire world is the one that feels the best in your hand, by best i mean like the best feeling boob youve ever felt
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on another archery site, ive read reviews about the PSE STINGER && BRUTE line getting way to little attention. one gentleman who makes bow strings for Olympic bows said with a good string, the STINGER>>BRUTE is up there with the best of them for a fraction of the cost.

my first bow was a pse deer hunter, and i honestly have a lone/hate feeling for that thing, not adjustable, it was too small for me right off the bat so i had to adjust many many things of myself to get things right. its now my fiances bow, it fits her fine. and shes not too shabby with it at all. i managed to group 3" at 30 yards with muzzys so i cant say the bow was bad, just not fitted like i needed it to.


if ur stinger feels good in ur hand, then your better off then lots of people. i couldnt be lucky enough to hold my brute before buying it, i look back now and know that was silly and risky but luckily i came out ontop with loving the bow.

i love PSE and their technology. hate their strings, but love their bows. ive shot mine close to 1500 times now, no issues, broke a dloop, and identically twisted the string being dumb, which led to peep twist around the 800 shot mark, once i untwisted the string everything went back to normal and i can still outshoot my friends 10 year parker bow and my buddies 2013 mathews he paid $1300 for... mine TYD was $440
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Originally Posted By: the noobieOk, thanks for the help all! At the price of rifle ammo I think I will just get real comfortable with the bow this summer, hopefully be able to get back to where I was and ready to hunt before next fall. Who knows maybe ill get some beater arrows and do some squirrel hunting with some rubber thumpers. See if I can't find some 3d ranges to try out as well.


What broadheads would you guys choose? Me and my dad are both looking for some and would both like to try and shoot the same. He has a bow that is a year newer than mine and its IBO speed is just a tad bit faster than mine but he's shooting a 60-70 lb bow at about 65 pounds.

Here's the 3 that I have been looking at, just reading reviews.

#1: magnus stingers with bleeder blades. Look decent, seem to get talked
about a lot I've read a few reviews that they do shoot better out of a slower bow.

#2: G5 Montec, get great reviews, I know my cousin has great luck with them. But my concern is if you miss your target or get a pass through shot, is it going destroy the broadhead? Is it something you just accept that you may only kill one animal with a broadhead?

#3: muzzy 3 blades, from the sounds if it they are a pain to tune, are they worth the extra effort? Can't you replacce both the tips and blades of the broadhead?

Lastly, do you guys sharpen your own broadheads? Have them sharpened? Or buy a set of hunting and a set of practice broad heads and buy new ones as the old hunting ones get dull?

Sorry for all the questions (and bad cell phone grammar). I just really want to get into archery more and really want to rekindle my interest in big game huting. Sort of lost interest in it for a couple years in high school but I want to get into it. Seeing how I've yet to take any big game with bow or rifle. < =O

The montecs are easy to sharpen, the edges are all set so all you need is a flat diamond stone and plop the broadhead down and give it a few strokes, rotate and give it the same amount of strokes, rotate and same amount of strokes until you're done. I'd reccomend the CS (carbon steel), they'll rust, but are better for sharpening yourself. Keep in mind the montecs will never be as sharp as a true razer. montecs are 60* edges and true razers are 15* 20* or so, but they are a lot more durable and have killed many many animals.

The only other advice I'd offer if your digging out an old bow is have it checked out good, it'll probably need new strings. Don't go buying 100 dollar winners choice either, there is a good string maker in idaho http://www.stonemountainbowstrings.com/ I run their strings and very happy with them. 40 bucks or so, the archery shop will charge you 60 or so bucks to install and do all the servings and put on a new D loop.

If you're really wanting a new boy save your 100 bucks though, you'll never get it back out of that bow on the used market.
 
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I've shot clean through deer with my 65lb longbow using 530gr arrows.Any compound set at 50lbs will shoot arrows of equal weight faster than my longbow.There are some advantages to quality bows/accessories but not as much as some would have you believe.So long as your bow is properly set up there's no animal in the USA it's not capable of killing so long as you do your part.IMO Magnus heads with or without the bleeders are about as good as it gets.On my compound I have the QAD Hunter rest.I never liked the idea of those WB rests but I've never tried one either.
 
When I was a younger I always begged my dad to get me some sweet [beeep] new soccer cleats like the rest of my teammates for the upcoming season. He would just tell me something along the lines of "It's not the shoe that makes the man, it's the man that makes the shoe." What he meant was a new pair of soccer cleats like the pros had weren't going to make me play any better. I was going to play better and get better because I wanted to, simple as that. Same goes for archery equipment. You're going to be a proficient shooter because you take the time to practice with the equipment that you already have. Sure, newer more expensive bows are going to be lighter and faster. So what. Archery is more about concentration and consistency in form. Let the goonies in the archery shop sling the jokes around while you go sling some arrows. Good shooting to ya bud!
 


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