Measuring for maximum seating depth

If your seating your bullet .300 off the lands and your getting excellent accuracy high velocity and no pressure đź‘‹đź‘‹đź‘‹. Are you still doing something wrong? Is seating you bullet .010 to start off chiseled in stone?
 
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OK....
I can see exactly how this is going.
Have a great time in your ventures Sir.... Again best of luck.
Respectfully,
Mike
 
Sgt_Mike said:
believe it or not I actually answered...... It's a NON issue for your 17 Rem if the bullet does it touch. Just seat it into the neck. At what length? the length that the bullet and chambering likes. Although I used the 6mm CM I'm just waiting on the stock to get in for as a guide.
In my case I'll probably seat that bullet 0.040"to 0.050" into the neck. Go to the lowest powder setting in data and shoot a ground.
Looking at Hodgdon's website for the 6mm CM at a 60grs I'll be looking for the slowest listed velocity (ONLY because of the constraints of that Barnes bullets and it's design).
Looks like Winchester StaBALL Match will get the nod for that Bullet. Balancing the velocity and pressure listed, Plus I have that powder on hand

WAit WHAt??? Loctite OH heck NOOOOOOOO

(while bullet sealant have been used in the past, they dang sure didn't use today's loc-tite, I can just vision if it leaked / or was pushed out. and when they did use a sealant for Military purposes, weather proofing, it dang sure wasn't put in a chamber to dry. )
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Not in the chamber in the cartridge neck. Just a light film push a bullet in chamber it and when it dries holding in the bullet you get a much better measurement than any other meat
 
The old timers used to soot the bullet with a candle and then keep adjusting until the lands just started to make a ring in the soot.
 
Wheeleraccuracy.com/videos

Scroll down to "Finding your lands". Best method known to man.

Yes, using a pair of marks on a cleaning rod works.
Yes, smoking bullets (or dykem or magic marker) works.
Yes, gluing a bullet into a case works.
Yes, the Hornady spindle works.
Yes, slotting a case neck works.
Yes, doing the same thing with the barrel removed from the action (Speedy's method) works the same as bolt lift with the barrel installed (Wheeler's method).

No, none of these other methods work as well (reliably, transferably, and repeatably) as the bolt lift method which Wheeler describes in the video on his site.

Choosing your jump for your specific bullet once that maximum "kiss length" is measured is something between science, critical importance, irrelevance, and voodoo. But the methods to find the lands are all relatively simple.
 
One thing I didn't see mentioned is you can only seat the bullet out so far whether you touch the rifling or not. You have to have it seated deep enough in the case to hold the bullet. I believe there is a formula for the minimum. Close to flush with the bottom of the neck is a good area.
I use the same method as AWS to find contact.
I think you would benefit from reading a good reloading manual or articles. Maybe you could talk to the guy at the range and have him mentor you.
Obviously everyone wants the best accuracy possible, but is it a hunting rifle, target rifle, or plinker? How often are you realistically going to be shooting at 500 yards?
There are a lot of variables when trying to achieve tiny groups. Could be seating depth, bedding, stock torque, trigger weight, type of powder, charge weight, etc. What accuracy is the rifle actually capable of? Even how accurate can you actually shoot? You need the basic fundamentals and then fine tune. Only you can decide when it's accurate enough. Just my vague thoughts reading through these posts.
 
crowslayer17 said:
I believe there is a formula for the minimum. Close to flush with the bottom of the neck is a good area.
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Lots of folks talk about a lot of rules of thumb, but none really carry much weight - for "minimum seating depth," at least.

Lots of folks have talked about putting "minimum 1 bullet diameter" into the case neck, so for a .308" bullet, you'd want .308" of bullet into the case... But wait... what about a boattail bullet? A flat base would have a full .308" of neck gripping the bearing surface, but a long boattail might have half of that... do you need to seat it more deeply? And where does that leave 300 win mag, since it only has .264" nominal neck available?

The advice to 1) Keep the bearing surface to ogive junction in front of the case mouth, and 2) Keep the bottom end of the bearing surface ahead of the shoulder to neck junction are generally good advice. But the minimum seating depth thing isn't terribly pertinent. Beyond that, yeah, just keeping enough bearing surface in the neck to prevent the bullet from being pulled by fingertip force is really all I care about. I'd love to have all of my boattail-bearing junctions synced up to my shoulder-neck junctions, and have my leades all perfectly synced up to my ogive (plus my desired jump) out front, but in reality, there's a lot of wiggle room between those.
 
I agree. I was just pretty vague about everything to show how many little things and variables there can be to reloading.
It was a suggestion for a good place to start if he couldn't reach the rifling, probably wasn't very clear as I tend to ramble in my writing.
If I remember correctly I had a Remington 700 .17 rem that had a lot of free bore.
 
I had a 17-222 that had a throat like Linda Lovelace, even 30 grain Bergers couldn't touch the lands & stay in the neck.

And again, the beauty of custom reamers & barrels, you end up getting what you want.

This pic shows is the ideal throating, the bullet is touching the lands, & the boatail/body juncture of the bullet just above the neck/shoulder juncture of the brass:

ZBoRB9E.jpg
 
Varminterror said:
Lots of folks have talked about putting "minimum 1 bullet diameter" into the case neck, so for a .308" bullet, you'd want .308" of bullet into the case... But wait... what about a boattail bullet? A flat base would have a full .308" of neck gripping the bearing surface, but a long boattail might have half of that... do you need to seat it more deeply? And where does that leave 300 win mag, since it only has .264" nominal neck available?
Click to expand...

Not arguing your post. Like you I heard it called years ago, just couldn't recall if it was 2x or just the diameter of the bullet.
That is until I read about the .30 wolfpup cartridge almost 20 years ago, which reading your mention of the 300 Win Mag short neck jogged the memory cells a bit ........

Radical Short-Neck Case Really Works — Ware’s Wolfpup Wildcat « Daily Bulletin

Think you need a relatively long case-neck for good accuracy? Think again. Stan Ware broke all the rules with his radical Wolfpup cartridge, proving that a near-no-neck design can deliver match-winning accuracy. Read on to learn how the Wolfpup works... <img class=alignright...
bulletin.accurateshooter.com bulletin.accurateshooter.com



Radical Wolf Pup Hunter BR Cartridge « Daily Bulletin

Al Nyhus and Stan Ware have created a radical short-necked Wolf Pup wildcat that won a number of matches in 2006. Al and Stan started with a 30BR design and blew the shoulder forward until the case had enough water capacity to satisfy the Hunter Benchrest rules. The Wolf Pup neck is only about .
bulletin.accurateshooter.com bulletin.accurateshooter.com
 
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When I got my 6mm Creedmoor it surprised me how much difference there was in the O.A.L. with different types of bullets.

Barnes shows O.A.L.'s of 2.650", 2.725" and 2.775"
 
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