25-06 Ackley advice

I headspace off of guages that were made to match the reamer. No additional "Crush" The typical problem occurs because Ackley's are not SAAMI cartridges so there is no standard data to apply. The term ACKLEY seems to only apply to a 40 degree shoulder. The Neck position and body taper could be different from reamer manufacturers to whatever the owner of the reamer specifies.

The only SAAMI standard "Ackley" is the 280.

There are always going to be different chambers called ACKLEYS they can differ from type of go/no go guage used, reamer manufacturer, gunsmith etc. That is why they are called Wildcats afterall.

I have a 338-300 Ultra mag with a 40 Degree shoulder. The shoulder is moved forward and 40 degrees but the case taper is the same as original Ultra mag. It could well be called a "Ackley". Along with the same design that reduced body taper could be called a "Ackley"

Its probably not a good idea to generalize everything with a 40 degree shoulder an ackley, but its not gonna change anytime soon...and neither is SAAMI going to standardize everything Ackley soon.....
 
I would like to thank all that have taken the time
to post. I have a Cooper in 25/06 AI that was purchased
from this board, and this has helped me.

One quick question

If I am creating a false shoulder, and resize back
down with the AI die for a good "crush"......would
this be where the sizing die should be set for sizing
the AI brass after it has been formed?

Thanks again
 
Originally Posted By: Double_DI would like to thank all that have taken the time
to post. I have a Cooper in 25/06 AI that was purchased
from this board, and this has helped me.

One quick question

If I am creating a false shoulder, and resize back
down with the AI die for a good "crush"......would
this be where the sizing die should be set for sizing
the AI brass after it has been formed?

Thanks again

I don't fully understand the last part of the question.

But... expand the neck to the next size up.

Then set your necksize die in the press, so the die is maybe 1/4" about the shellholder when the ram is up.

Then size a neck a little - chamber it - if you cannot close the bolt, then turn the die down 1/4 turn and do it again.

Keep doing it until you can just close the bolt with a fair amount of force.

Then load them at that setting and shoot them. I lightly coat cases that I am fireforming with a very light oil, (G-96) so they will not stretch, even a little bit.

Then you are good.

Enjoy.


 
Originally Posted By: CatShooterOriginally Posted By: Double_DI would like to thank all that have taken the time
to post. I have a Cooper in 25/06 AI that was purchased
from this board, and this has helped me.

One quick question

If I am creating a false shoulder, and resize back
down with the AI die for a good "crush"......would
this be where the sizing die should be set for sizing
the AI brass after it has been formed?

Thanks again

I don't fully understand the last part of the question.

But... expand the neck to the next size up.

Then set your necksize die in the press, so the die is maybe 1/4" about the shellholder when the ram is up.

Then size a neck a little - chamber it - if you cannot close the bot, then turn the die down 1/4 turn and do it again.

Keep doing it until you can just close the bolt with a fair amount offorce.

Then load them at that setting and shoot them. I lightly coat cases that I am fireforming with a very light oil, (G-96) so they will not stretch, even a little bit.

Then you are good.

Enjoy.




Cat,

I have read most of your post, and know that you like your dies set up so that cases will not be stretched when fired....

After I have followed your procedure above, and have fired my AI'ed piece of brass again, would using the die as it was set to give the 'crush' fit (for the false shoulder) be where I would want the die for the full length resize for minimal case bumping?
 
Originally Posted By: Ackman...There's nothing at all wrong with a 13 twist barrel. Not everybody cares about shooting 105's. Benchresters have been using 14's for years. One of my 243AI's is 13twist. I shoot 70's and they're just godawful accurate.....it's a rockchuck/prairie dog gun. Another one is 9-1/2 twist, same barrel and chamber. It's also very accurate but much fussier about what it likes to shoot.....took a lot longer to get the load dialed in.

My .240 Gibbs is 13 twist. Shoots 70's very fast and unbelievably well. The 6BR is 14 twist......extremely accurate. Both 6-250's are 12 twist - varmint guns - and they're also very accurate.

I cold not agree more. As point blank BR shooters know well, you generally get the best accuracy with the slowest twist rate that will still stabilize the bullet being used.

As for shooting heavy bullets in some cartridges and bore diameters, the 6-250 with a slower twist makes a lot more sense to me than a 22-250 with a fast twist barrel shooting heavy for caliber bullets.

As for the Ackley stuff, if the reamer is a good reamer, all the gunsmith has to do is to cut the chamber so that the head of normal factory brass is supported against the closed bolt face and the point where the neck and shoulder meet on the factory brass is fully supported and touching at that point in the front of the chamber. This creates a crush fit upon closing the bolt that will allow firing the fully supported factory brass to achieve an AI case with the shoulder blown forward to 40° and the shoulder area reshaped to now occupy the previously empty space in the AI chamber. When the brass comes out of the rifle, you have an AI case. Very little or no stretching of the case in the critical web area will occur if the case is supported in this manner. This is the same principle as setting a false shoulder on a case neck to create a crush fit and fire forming the brass to create a wildcat cartridge with more powder space, or whatever.

As has been stated already, all of the SAAMI head space measurements, including the often quoted .004" crush fit mean nothing in the total scheme of things. By definition the "head space" length of the resulting AI case will always be greater than the normal factory case if SAAMI principles of measuring head space from the base of the cartridge to a typically defined mid shoulder datum point on the brass are utilized.

After case forming, sensible reloading practices including not over-sizing the resulting AI case will allow the cases to last a life time.
 
Originally Posted By: Double_D

Cat,

I have read most of your post, and know that you like your dies set up so that cases will not be stretched when fired....

After I have followed your procedure above, and have fired my AI'ed piece of brass again, would using the die as it was set to give the 'crush' fit (for the false shoulder) be where I would want the die for the full length resize for minimal case bumping?



Once you have fired your cases, then set the neck size die to just size the amount of neck that the bullet touches when it is seated...

... so if the bullet seats into the neck 0.20", then size the neck 0.20".
 
Maybe you guys can help me with this.I have 4 Ackley chambered rifles,3 of them give me a crush fit with factory loads.THe .25-06 Ackley I have will NOT give me a crush fit on any brand of factory ammo(the chamber was cut as a .25-06AI in a new barrel).I have been running my fireform brass through a .280Rem die and then through the .25-06 die to get a false shoulder.It is my thought that if my chamber was properly cut I should have a crush fit with factory loads.Can this be remedied by setting the barrel back? Many thanks,Monashee
 
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Originally Posted By: AckmanI don't know about 243AI "long". There's not much left on that case to do a long version. That case in the picture looks like an AI only with the reamer pushed in a just a little too far. Like something a home gunsmith might do.....someone who also doesn't bother to stamp the barrel.

There's nothing at all wrong with a 13 twist barrel. Not everybody cares about shooting 105's. Benchresters have been using 14's for years. One of my 243AI's is 13twist. I shoot 70's and they're just godawful accurate.....it's a rockchuck/prairie dog gun. Another one is 9-1/2 twist, same barrel and chamber. It's also very accurate but much fussier about what it likes to shoot.....took a lot longer to get the load dialed in.

My .240 Gibbs is 13 twist. Shoots 70's very fast and unbelievably well. The 6BR is 14 twist......extremely accurate. Both 6-250's are 12 twist - varmint guns - and they're also very accurate.

You missed my point.

Benchrest shooters use a 14 twist for short range BR shooting. 100 & 200 yards. Why build a 28 inch long .243 Ackley to shoot short range when a 6 PPC or 6 BR (or a number of other 6MM) will be more accurate with a quater less powder and three timess the barrel life?

Why build a 28 inch barrel rifle shooting a barrel burning cartridge for short range shooting.

That's all I neant. Nothing more, nothing less.

I have a 6MM BR with a 14 twist for short range prairie dog shooting and I love it. It has a 20 inch long barrel and will take any poor dog that lingers inside 500 yards with it's 65 VMAX @ 3350 FPS. When I move out to 750 yards that 65 VMAX has dropped 22.5 MOA while my 105 from my 8 twist 6mm BR that started at 2850 has only dropped 18.5 MOA and the 105 from my 8 twist .243 AI has dropped 17 MOA. even though at 500 yards their drop was about the same.

Bullet velocity is only useful if it has a purpose. Launching a 105 AMAX at 3000 FPS won't kill a prairie dog any deader than launching a 65 VMAX at 3900 FPS. It just makes hitting them at long range easier.

Shooting prairie dogs at 200 - 300 yards is fun but shooting prairie dogs at 800+ is funner.
 
Originally Posted By: MonasheeMaybe you guys can help me with this.I have 4 Ackley chambered rifles,3 of them give me a crush fit with factory loads.THe .25-06 Ackley I have will NOT give me a crush fit on any brand of factory ammo(the chamber was cut as a .25-06AI in a new barrel).I have been running my fireform brass through a .280Rem die and then through the .25-06 die to get a false shoulder.It is my thought that if my chamber was properly cut I should have a crush fit with factory loads.Can this be remedied by setting the barrel back? Many thanks,Monashee

As you suspect, your chamber was cut too deep.. you have a 4 thou crush, and you are doing the best procedure for the situation.

If you have the barrel set back, you can remedy the situation, IF you can find a smith that knows how to cut a proper Ackley chamber.
 
Originally Posted By: JerrySchmittOriginally Posted By: AckmanI don't know about 243AI "long". There's not much left on that case to do a long version. That case in the picture looks like an AI only with the reamer pushed in a just a little too far. Like something a home gunsmith might do.....someone who also doesn't bother to stamp the barrel.

There's nothing at all wrong with a 13 twist barrel. Not everybody cares about shooting 105's. Benchresters have been using 14's for years. One of my 243AI's is 13twist. I shoot 70's and they're just godawful accurate.....it's a rockchuck/prairie dog gun. Another one is 9-1/2 twist, same barrel and chamber. It's also very accurate but much fussier about what it likes to shoot.....took a lot longer to get the load dialed in.

My .240 Gibbs is 13 twist. Shoots 70's very fast and unbelievably well. The 6BR is 14 twist......extremely accurate. Both 6-250's are 12 twist - varmint guns - and they're also very accurate.

You missed my point.

Benchrest shooters use a 14 twist for short range BR shooting. 100 & 200 yards. Why build a 28 inch long .243 Ackley to shoot short range when a 6 PPC or 6 BR (or a number of other 6MM) will be more accurate with a quater less powder and three timess the barrel life?

Why build a 28 inch barrel rifle shooting a barrel burning cartridge for short range shooting.

That's all I neant. Nothing more, nothing less.

I have a 6MM BR with a 14 twist for short range prairie dog shooting and I love it. It has a 20 inch long barrel and will take any poor dog that lingers inside 500 yards with it's 65 VMAX @ 3350 FPS. When I move out to 750 yards that 65 VMAX has dropped 22.5 MOA while my 105 from my 8 twist 6mm BR that started at 2850 has only dropped 18.5 MOA and the 105 from my 8 twist .243 AI has dropped 17 MOA. even though at 500 yards their drop was about the same.

Bullet velocity is only useful if it has a purpose. Launching a 105 AMAX at 3000 FPS won't kill a prairie dog any deader than launching a 65 VMAX at 3900 FPS. It just makes hitting them at long range easier.

Shooting prairie dogs at 200 - 300 yards is fun but shooting prairie dogs at 800+ is funner.



Good morning Jerry.

"Shooting prairie dogs at 200 - 300 yards is fun but shooting prairie dogs at 800+ is funner."

Well, it sure is more funner .

But since you are one of the more brighter bulbs in this chandelier - I'll be a pain in the butt and disagree - not about the 800 yd shots on PD's, but on the necessity of very long bullets for very long ranges.

I've been through several stages in the long bullet thing, and I'm now at the stage of "Long bullets may not be the solution" stage.

When I went to SoDak the first time for PDs, there were pretty much no long bullets and fast twists guns, except for the 224 Clarke (a 244 Rem necked down to 22... and once a year, Hornady made a special run of 80 grain 224 bullets for a closed list of customers).

On that trip, I had two 222 mag benchrest rifles, a 22-250, and a 6mm Rem. One of the other guys brought two 222 Rem rifles, and his very newish 224 Clarke and a WW-II 30" Barr and Stroud optical rangefinder. It was in very good condition, and it was the first one I had ever seen - it was way Kewl!...
... and there was a third guy with a few 222 type rifles and a 22-250.

Most of the scopes were Unertls, with a few Redfield targets (3200s or 6400s, I can't remember), and two K-10s

The first two days, we whacked some dogs, but we were mostly making range charts for the calibrated micrometers on our rifles, since none us of had ever seen, much less used, a rangefinder before.

When we got down to the dark and dirty business of slaying poor widdle, cute PD,s we learned a few things.

I learned that if you are fighting a cross wind at long range, no matter what you shoot, you cannot win, and I never forgot it - while a long heavy bullet drifts less, it still drifts way too much to get an accurate estimate for a first shot hit... you still need to "see the drift" (in the form of a puff of dust) and compensate.

And for the issue of less drop... if you have a range chart and range finder (and now everyone and their grandmother has a laser RangeFinder), then the amount of drop is meaninglessness.

The practical end of it is that the third guy and myself whacked more long range PDs (700+ yds) with our 222 class rifles, than the guy with the 224 Carke did, because:

1 - If you know the range and have a "click chart", then the comparative drop between heavy and light bullets is meaningless - it is just a number on the scope dial... you dial 17 and I dial 21 and we both are "dead on" (that was a pun
tt2.gif
)

2 - We could see our misses and instantly correct, the guy with the Clarke couldn't get back on the PD in time to see the puffs of dust and correct.

3 - We learned by the third day to completely avoid dealing with the wind - we set up so the wind was at our back or in our face so we always had no side wind.

But the other side of it is, that with those very long/heavy bullets - at the early stage of acceleration, the barrel transit time is ~twice that of a "normal" weight bullet, which means twice the heat transfer and twice the throat erosion.

Add to that, while PDs don't take much killin', woodchucks do, and those long needles at 400+ yards have a habit of zippin' through a 15 pound woodchuck without opening... and the 'chuck makes it back to the hole and bleeds out
frown.gif


So I am at the stage where I don't do fast twist/heavy bullet rifles anymore.

Just a thought...

 
Same here. I have shot PD's for a bunch of summers in my 60+ year life dating back to my early teen age years, and I've gone through the whole realm of what is fun. At one time, 800+ yards was fun and a challenge, but for me I realized fairly quickly that I'd rather see chunks and red mist at 400 yards versus a PD simply tipping over at 800+.

And shooting into a cross wind is a waste of a good day of shooting in Wyoming or South Dakota, etc. when shooting PD's. Square around with the wind, and a windy day can be just as good a day of shooting as is a calm day.
 
Originally Posted By: JerrySchmitt

You missed my point.

Why build a 28 inch barrel rifle shooting a barrel burning cartridge for short range shooting.

I have a 6MM BR with a 14 twist for short range prairie dog shooting and I love it. It has a 20 inch long barrel and will take any poor dog that lingers inside 500 yards with it's 65 VMAX @ 3350 FPS. When I move out to 750 yards that 65 VMAX has dropped 22.5 MOA while my 105 from my 8 twist 6mm BR that started at 2850 has only dropped 18.5 MOA and the 105 from my 8 twist .243 AI has dropped 17 MOA. even though at 500 yards their drop was about the same.

Bullet velocity is only useful if it has a purpose. Launching a 105 AMAX at 3000 FPS won't kill a prairie dog any deader than launching a 65 VMAX at 3900 FPS. It just makes hitting them at long range easier.

Shooting prairie dogs at 200 - 300 yards is fun but shooting prairie dogs at 800+ is funner.



Really, I got your point. It's flawed.

There's definitely a reason for long barrels.......a 28" 243AI because you get a couple rechambers when the throat starts to go.....the "barrel burning cartridge" you mention? With a gun like this for colony varmints you set up and shoot. Extra length is extra weight, it helps keep the muzzle down. Some guys start with a 30" tube....why not, it's just gonna sit there anyway. That's why a 28" 243AI.

I don't shoot the 65Vmax in a 243AI, but do shoot 70BalTips which have a much higher BC. And also 70gr on J4's that Ackleyman used to make. A 70@ 3850-3900 shoots a lot flatter and hits a whole bunch harder than a 65Vmax @3350. I don't care about 105's. Velocity causes fireworks.....it's the launch and gutpile that make things fun. Also you can get a lot more from your 6BR. It's a great cartridge, I shoot one.....55/58's @ 3900+ and 65's@3650-3675.


 
Catshooter,sent you a PM but I'll post it here for comment.I have a good friend who is most experienced with AI chambers.As Catshooter stated I believe I have a deep chamber in my .25-06AI,set back only 4 thou.My friend suggests starting with .280Rem brass which is longer than 06 or 25-06 brass,and bumping back the shoulder in the .25-06 die until I get a crush fit.The case will need trimming as the neck will be too long to chamber,but once trimmed to SAAMI .25-06 length I do get a good crush fit,What say you! Monashee
 
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Originally Posted By: 204farrmonashee why not just cram your bullets .015 and be done with it .that will let you form fire

With all due respect, there are far better ways to fire form brass than "cramming" bullets. Cramming only allows for base to bolt contact, but if the front of the brass is not supported sufficiently, the brass can stretch significantly. It works for some cartridges and not so well for others depending on bullet crimp.

Monashee, I'm not Catshooter, but if the resulting brass will chamber with a crush fit that you know is a result of base to bolt and neck/shoulder intersection point of contact at the front of the chamber, you should be good to go unless there is some other weird "off-spec" feature about the chamber in your rifle.
 
In other wildcat fire forming operations, creating a false shoulder is exactly what is needed for success. I am far from an expert, but chances are to trim the brass back to 25/06 specs may be far shorter than needed. Maybe trim a little at a time untill you can get a case fully chambered, then you will know that at max length your case will need to be shorter than that (but by how much I don't know, maybe .010"?). Depending on your chamber/ free bore dimensions this could help support a bullet that could otherwise be minimally seated. Otherwise, I would say you are spot on with creating a false shoulder.
 
If he's forming the brass in a 25-06 die, he will not have a resulting "false shoulder". He will simply be moving the case shoulder back to the proper position for a crush fit upon chambering the brass. A false shoulder is a portion of the case neck that is larger than the rest of the reduced case neck and causes the brass to stop moving any further forward into the chamber.

A good example of a false shoulder is necking 222 Rem Mag brass down a bit at a time to 20 caliber and leaving a .224" false shoulder on the case neck at the correct distance/place to allow for a crush fit when chambering, and then you fire form the 222 Rem Mag brass into 204 Ruger brass when fired in a 204 Ruger rifle. The .224" false shoulder is on the case neck and not on the case shoulder itself.

If you will click on this link and enlarge the picture in the article, you will readily see a false shoulder on the case neck on the case located second from the left in the picture.

http://www.6mmbr.com/6improvedform.html

As for case length, definitely it should be trimmed for the chamber length. 99% of all factory rifle chambers are longer than the "trim to length" + 0.010" you normally see in print for the brass. It's called "lawyer proofing" a factory chamber against high pressure.

Sinclair sells a neat little button device to place in the end of a piece of short necked brass to determine actual chamber length on a rifle. They are available in various bore diameters, and they are well worth the money so you can see how your rifle is actually chambered.
 
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