Bolt stickin on 300 RUM

Originally Posted By: EJ ReichenbachI think the berger manual is a little on the weak side, just my thoughts anyone I know is always way over what there book calls for.

I might look into a brake, cuz that thing really dishes it out on both ends of the gun if you know what I mean, what part of MT you from.

Havre. Yea I wouldn't touch an unbraked 300RUM
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, like they say every rifle is an individual, some develop pressure early some late.

Look around on LRH, there's another guy on there goes by bigngreen he's here in the state also, he's found a brake he really really likes as well.

If you do contact Kirby talk to him about his load development method, he has extensive experience with barrel burning wildcats, he had to come up with procedure that gets you to a good load fast.
 
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Originally Posted By: joekingOriginally Posted By: EJ ReichenbachI tried the retumbo with the same brass and the bolt didnt stick, but the primer pockets dont have much left in them, I bought some more brass and some berger 210vlds, as if the SOB didnt kick hard enough. Look up Kirby Allen APSRIFLES in Ft.Shaw he has (pardon the french) one helluva good brake design. Just talk to the guy a little
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Wow, I thought I had nice guns, mine look like a big pile of crap compared to the guns on his sight, I know a guy pretty well his name is Jason Rigby he has Snow MTN Rifles in missoula, and he has built alot of RUM's and I just got done talkin to him and he said 95% of the rum's he builds like Retumbo and 210vld's. So hopefully tomorrow I can get out and test some loads.

I would love to have one of those 25 or 7mm Allens he builds those guns are nice, and I bet they shoot good to
thanks for all your info, and I tried your paper clip trick and that seems logical enough and dont seem any different than the new brass, and my Jason also told me that annealing would help me get more reloads out of them as long as the pockets hold, seems they have problems with necks getting hard and crackin
 
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