Flextone Echo volume booster

I said this before, but I'll say it again. This caller is not a piece of cake to disassemble. Just a couple of things I'll mention if you do decide to attempt it.

Remove batteries first!

Then there are are two items you need to get off before ever removing the first screw.

The metal rings for the carry strap is first. Using two pairs of pliers, twist the ends in opposite directions so there is enough opening in the rings to remove them. Then throw the damm rattling things away!

The legs are the next thing. How to remove the legs was a real head scratcher for awhile.

Hint here: At first glance it looks like you should be able to drive/push the metal pins though the legs, through the case and out the other side. Awww, ,but alas, it's not that easy! They are not one long pin as they look to be! There is not a hole that goes clear though the case halves. There are actually FOUR separate metal pins that hold the legs on. At least one of those pins in each leg needs to come out. Then with the other pin still in the leg, you can twist, pull and manipulate the plastic leg to get it off the caller. Good luck with the leg (I should say pin) removal. It was the most challenging part of the entire project.
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NOW, you can remove all the screws.

Next, use a butter knife to slowly, gently start separating the case halves. GO CAREFULLY, SLOWLY, GENTLY. Remember that good sealer I mentioned? It also does a very good job of gluing everything together! Also be careful so you don't mess up the rubber gasket in the process. On my caller, part of the gasket wanted to stay with the left side of the case and part wanted to stay with the right. Before you get the cases separated to far (less than 1/4"), decide which side you want that gasket to stay with and carefully use the butter knife (maybe a small screw driver, etc) to *help* the gasket stay with that side. That good sealer makes this a challenge in some places! It's GOOD STUFF.. lol

Hint #2: As you are separating the case, try and persuade both speakers and the button control pad to stay with the RIGHT side of the case (right side meaning opposite side as battery compartment).. This way all you have to worry about in the left side of the case is the two wires going to the battery compartment (makes things a little easier)..

OK, now you can carefully work the speaker out of the right case half and remove the rubber ring which will free the grill. YEAH!!

(Note here: the antenna wire (just a bare copper wire) on mine was taped to the side of the speaker and kinda ran under it. Don't know if all the callers would be this way or not. If yours is, I would suggest un-taping the wire and gently, carefully get it out of the way while you're messing with the speaker. Be careful and don't break it off of the circuit board! Before I reassembled, I re-routed that antenna wire upward to the highest point possible inside the caller. You can do that if'n you want to or not. May not make a bit of difference.)

Which brings you to one more slight dilemma. Now without the grill in the rubber speaker ring the speaker will be very loose in the rubber and will flop around. Not to mention it won't seal good when you put it all back together.

You will want to do something to make up for the approx thickness of the now missing grill and take up the extra space that is now in the rubber speaker ring. I at first used a thin piece of nylon twine and worked it down between the rubber and the speaker lip. That would of worked just fine, as would of a piece of thin insulated electrical wire or any number of other things or ways a guy could of come up with.

I then thought of a rubber O ring. I scrounged around through my O ring assortment and found one about the same diameter as the grill and just a touch thicker. Worked fantastic!

Well that's about it. Reassemble and hopefully it all still works.

There ARE a few challenges to this little modification. But that's what makes it fun.
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So is there room inside the case to hook a female jack. Also why couldn't you leave both speakers hooked up and just splice into one of them leaving you option to an external speaker or not. You gotta love human inginuity
 
Originally Posted By: saw557So is there room inside the case to hook a female jack. Also why couldn't you leave both speakers hooked up and just splice into one of them leaving you option to an external speaker or not. You gotta love human inginuity

Yeah, there's plenty of room to do that. Almost enough room in there to hold a square dance.

If it was me and I was going to make provisions to run an external speaker, I would remove the speaker wires from the cone speaker and run them to a female jack. I'd leave the cone speaker totally out of the loop. To me, the cone speaker is just about worthless anyway. I didn't do it because I don't want to take/carry an extra speaker around with me when I call.
 
I guess what I was thinking was I have already made the homemade caller and I usually bring it with and run them both using two different sounds like a distress and crows I was thinking certain situations I would hook the flextone to the homemade caller for extra volume but I would like to leave both speakers on the echo hooked up would this work or not. Or by removing the speaker grills do you gain enough volume to not mess around with the ext jack
 
Well Doggin I had to do it. I took the metal cover off of the front speaker. I downloaded a decibel meter on my phone before I took it off and ran my call at volume 5 and got 76 db with crow mobbing, after the cover was off I got a reading of 81 db. If my math is right, that's an increase of 7.8%, not bad for a 15 minute job. Rabbit distress started at 68 db and got 71 db after, an increase of 4.4%. When I did female coyote howl it went down from 77 db to 75 db max a decrease of 2.3%, which I don't understand why it would go down.

Now this was a free app on a mid range smart phone so take the numbers with a grain of salt or two. It still might give an idea for anyone thinking about doing it.

Oh I had a little trouble getting the seal around the led window to stay in place when putting it back together, I had to use a drop of super glue to hold it down.
 
Originally Posted By: golfballWell i just finished hooking up the ext. jack on my flextone HD and pluged in my sp55 speaker,SUPER VOLUME!!!

Hows the clarity and any un wanted noises?

The TOA speakers below are amped and ready to go. Just add batteries to them.

10,15 and 30 watts of power. Jast add batteries to these TOA and you will have volume.


TOA SC-610T
TOA SC-615T
TOA SC-630T
 
Compaq12 are you sure about your info on the "T" series? where do you put the batteries?? TOA sc T's have a transformer to allow different voltages for PA use. Unless I am missing something they aren't self amplified. Is there a link to the self amplifing TOAs that I am missing?
 
Originally Posted By: lowtempguruCompaq12 are you sure about your info on the "T" series? where do you put the batteries?? TOA sc T's have a transformer to allow different voltages for PA use. Unless I am missing something they aren't self amplified. Is there a link to the self amplifing TOAs that I am missing?

Read it wrong. The reading went into guitar amps with batteries. Was on same page as TOA t series. Myu boof
 
Originally Posted By: snowcamomandoggin, That's pretty impressive with the remote range too. I haven't heard of anybody with that kind of remote reliability.
I could get 425 yards out of the ER1 I had last year. I was above it and across 2 gullys. I left it on to chase a coyote wounded coyote and figured since I was already getting 200 yards out of it why not see if the remote will turn it on at 425. It did, I could hardly make the rabbit sound out though that far out. I scrolled to coyote and when I got a lot closer to it thats what was playing.
This was all in open counrty also. All my sets were at 50-80 yards though.
 
Originally Posted By: 5spdOriginally Posted By: snowcamomandoggin, That's pretty impressive with the remote range too. I haven't heard of anybody with that kind of remote reliability.
I could get 425 yards out of the ER1 I had last year. I was above it and across 2 gullys. I left it on to chase a coyote wounded coyote and figured since I was already getting 200 yards out of it why not see if the remote will turn it on at 425. It did, I could hardly make the rabbit sound out though that far out. I scrolled to coyote and when I got a lot closer to it thats what was playing.
This was all in open counrty also. All my sets were at 50-80 yards though.

Yeah, it is impressive. Sure takes the wind outta the FHSS sails.
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Hey doggin, does it look like it would be fairly easy to turn it into a portable handheld unit? One speaker, batts, circuits and keypad? I've been wanting to get one of the Mimics for a few vocals when on the move at night. The one with the soundlist I want is $69, I've been seeing these for around $99 with a lot more sounds. I'm not really worried about looks, just small and functional. You think it'd be doable without too much trouble? I'm not even worried about remote function.
 
I have had the same luck with my remote out to 300 yards (line of sight). I have been happy with the caller but also wanted more volume. I had considered adding a external speaker jack but was afraid to crack the caller open. Glad you did it and provided some info.

Now if only someone can tell me how to add some sounds to its library I would be very happy.

Thanks doggin. I'm gonna do surgery on my caller tonite.
 
Definately gonna do this mod. But really the only thing I would like to see on this unit is a provision to upload sounds. My remote works out to at least 100 yds. Haven't tried any more.
 
Before I open mine up and screw it up hopefully somebody smarter than me will tell me if this will work. What I want to do is connect an aux jack to the rear speaker and hook it up to a speco speaker powered with a radio shack mini amp. What I am wondering is can I keep the rear speaker hooked and also run the aux speaker or will I get feed back. Most of the time I think the caller is probably loud enough but there are times I would like to run the extras speaker
 
While I had mine apart I tried a RS mini amp with a 5" Speco using the rear speaker circuit. Sounded like crap.

But by all means try it for yourself just to see.
 
So what you're saying is it would be a waste of my time to put an aux jack in or are there other reasonable options for an additional speaker and extra volume
 
Saw, I took my Echo apart and added an audio out port. I installed a switch so I could turn the rear cone speaker on and off when using an AUX speaker. For my Aux speaker I used a TOA610 and found that it added a lot more volume and seemed a little clearer then the horn in the Echo. If you decide to take your Echo apart, I would suggest rereading Doggin Coyotes comments on the legs and the gasket. Good luck and if you add and AUX to your Echo I hope it turns out the way youd like...

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