Flextone Echo volume booster

Very good write-up doggin, thanks. You've convinced me this is a very well made little caller with excellent reach of the remote.
 
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This question is a bit off topic, but figured I'd check with the guys who are into tinkering like me. What kind of soldering iron/station are you guys using? I have a few irons with various tips and wattages, but am looking at a new soldering/rework station.

Lowtempguru or Doggin,
Can you get me the dimensions of the circuit in the Echo next time you have it apart? Also, the size of the small control section on the caller, so I can see if I can easily make a way to fit it onto a TOA, rear cap? One other question. For the remote charging, are the leads for the wires run out of the main circuit, or just out of the smaller board where the power charger plugs in? I'm just thinking if I gut it I'll want a way to still charge the remote easily. Thanks.
 
Thanks to doggin coyotes great review & testing.

I went ahead & bought one of these. I gotta say they are built like a little tank. As the shell of the caller is quite thick & stout.

I also accidently dumped mine over out of the caller bag I toted it in. It free fell a foot or so onto the oak floor with a loud thump. Caller kept on working.

I tested the remote range out on an open gravel road in a stout cross-wind. I stepped off 250yrds in 50yrd increments. Remote & caller send & receive worked out to 250yrds/(open line of sight). Further out I couldn't hear the caller, in the stout wind. As I have a hearing deficit anywho. So I stopped testing @ 250yrds.

Once the batteries were charged. I ran it for 3 1-hr increments. Batteries still show a full charge on both the remote & the caller.

So far I'd rate it a 10 on a 1-10 scale.
 
I took the covers off of both speakers. Once I had this call body apart. This pic shows the rear speaker. The rear speaker has a thin plastic membrane over it. So I felt the need to have a protector cover over it, with more & larger holes. To let out more sound. vs the small holes in the speaker cover.

Un-covered rear speaker. Note; I also took off the metal (noisey) carry strap, rings on the call body. Et replaced them with zip-ties. Carrying/handling of the caller is much quieter now. Pretty much noiseless.

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I took the front speaker cover off. Then drilled many more & larger holes in it. Then I used rubberized silicone to attach it over the call body rear speaker housing. To protect the somewhat fragile rear speaker. My caller is louder now by 10-15% or so. I left the front speaker exposed, as it is an all metal horn speaker.

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One more thing I did before installing the legs back onto the caller body. Because the leg pins are hard to extract intially.

Is, I notched the outer leg body. So the pin head is now exposed & can be extracted easily. If the need should arise to gain access to the inside of the call body.

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I just saw this post, but a while back I also cut the wires to the horn speaker inside and soldered them to a 1/8 audio plug. I just plug an external speaker into the side and the volume is way louder. I can still switch to the other speaker on the caller as well. It's a very simple mod with great results. Cut two wires, drill a hole for the audio plug, solder the wires and done.
 
I just had to do mine as well today. Figured if Engineer Doggin could do it...so could I...LOL.

Easy as pie...nothing to it... took out both grills and installed regular screen wire over the speakers for a little protection... especially the rear one... volumne does seem better.

LowTemp turned me onto the audio jack part numbers, which I'll also install this week for the external speaker.

If feels good when things come together.
 
Engineer? I spent the better part of my life repairing/modifing/improving crap that some friggin engineer designed. Ya kinda hurt my feelers Dan.
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Ok, so I got to know before I damage this thing, how exactly do you get those pins out. Did you drill a small hole and then used a punch and hammer to drive it out. I can see that they are a press fit into the leg so it should be fairly snug. My next option is to cut the legs and then fix them when I'm done with a plastic repair kit but I don't really want to do that.
 
All are WT sounds, with the exception of a few of the rabbits and possibly some of the whitetail deer sounds. If you take the sound files from an Echo and compare them in Audacity to WT sounds they match up in sound profile, some of the files are shorter on the ECHO, but most WT sound files are short less then 30 seconds before they loop. Also if you go to WT's website and compare the sound titles to the sound titles on the Echo they are word for word the same.
 
ok 3030 man, grab each side of leg in each hand and twist as much as you can then scoot as far as you can, release and do again,you can walk pins right out!
 
Best luck I had was to turn the echo upside down.pull one side of the leg out maybe 1/16 of a inch hold the pin .between the leg and body,with my pocketknife blade and release pressure on leg. 3 4 5 times you should have enough pin sticking out to remove with pliars. after you have done it once its easy to do any of them. Ive done 3 echos no problem. Dubzzz
 
Yes. I finally got around to test my 2 yr old unit earlier this season. (It still looks like the day I bought it too) It worked out to 343 yards (checked on google earth) and there was a small hump separating me from the caller.
 


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