Gun cleaning. (Time to get Serious)

Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeWe'll see what everyone esle says,but here is my take....
36" for 24" barrel
40" for 26" barrel

I'd say that's about right.
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The action and guide take up more than you'd think.
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeBending a cleaning rod....
They all flex. The little cal 17&20 rods can be hard to stear.


Jeff, How do you install the grease ,q-tip,finger ?

Yep, they all bend.....the smaller, the worser.

Tim, the Tetra grease tube has a little pointy tip.
 
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Ok so now

Im up to

1)36" Dewey Rod
2) Possum Hollow- Bore Guides
3)Sharp Shooter Wipe Out Foaming Bore Cleaner


Missing anything
 
Gary, the grease I'm using is TM Solution Ultra bolt grease. It comes in a plunger type syringe with small opening at the "needle" end so it comes out slowly. It's nice and light/thin, if you know what I mean. I use the TM solution bore solvent also. Doesn't contain any petroleum products and work well.

P.S/ You can use too long of a rod too and bend it. Ask me how I know.
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So do y'all just use a solvent, then foaming cleaner, then swab it until dry? If u keep it fairly clean, do you need to use a bronze brush?
 
Originally Posted By: YoteSnufferSo do y'all just use a solvent, then foaming cleaner, then swab it until dry? If u keep it fairly clean, do you need to use a bronze brush?

That's pretty much how I do it.
I've been getting clean patches without brushing on a couple of my guns. It just depends on the barrel.
Don't use the bronze brush with the copper cleaner.
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeBending a cleaning rod....
They all flex. The little cal 17&20 rods can be hard to stear.


I honestly never had that problem or don't take notice.

A little barrel rub from the rod ain't a concern for me if it does happen.

Maybe cause

I don't get my barrels gunked up that much like some of you guys that put mucho rounds through them,
therefore I don't clean my barrels as often as you folks, and there's not that much in mine to cause resistance..

I'm not a technical long-range shooter like some of you guys.

If that were the case, maybe I would re-think my KISS principle outlook.

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Flex - the way I see it (my opinion only) is that a bore guide only protects from flex at the end of the barrel. Nothing preventing a rod from flexing half way down the barrel - if one was force-feeding it. But I would never force feed a cleaning rod to begin with. I guess I'm cornfused.....
 
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Thanks John. Ill look into it.

I was under the impression you let the gun soak with foaming bore cleaner over night then just swabbed it dry.

Where does the solvent come into play?
 
Is the Tetra grease white. I have a tube of that here that is at least 15 years old, my dad got it with a over under tikka that he bought. I'll have to give it a try
 
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Originally Posted By: AtomIs the Tetra grease white. I have a tube of that here that is at least 15 years old, my got it with a over under tikka that he bought. I'll have to give it a try

Yes, it's white.
My son uses it on the hinge area of his BT 99.

Seems to be good stuff!
 
Originally Posted By: getfoxyOk so now

Im up to

1)36" Dewey Rod
2) Possum Hollow- Bore Guides
3)Sharp Shooter Wipe Out Foaming Bore Cleaner


Missing anything
Some good jags if you don't already have them.
 
Originally Posted By: getfoxyOk so now

Im up to

1)36" Dewey Rod
2) Possum Hollow- Bore Guides
3)Sharp Shooter Wipe Out Foaming Bore Cleaner


Missing anything

Butches Bore Shine solvent.

Nylon brushes 1 cal larger then the rifle. (ie: 24 cal for ure 221)
You need some pipettes to dispense the solvent. It makes it a cleaner operation.
A nice set of picks and some nylon bristled brushes (toothbrush)

And we talked about jags, the pointed ones are better, I think, then slotted.

That's a good start.
 
Originally Posted By: YoteSnufferAnd what about after the foam?

I use the foam first. Let it sit for about 15-20 minutes. Scrub it out with a nylon brush. Then use Butches Bore Brite. I use wet patches until they are clean. Then dry patches until they are dry on the other end. I only do this in the off season.

During the season, I just run CLP patches until they are fairly clean. Then run a couple dry patches to make sure there isn't gobs of goo anywhere.
 
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