I'm going to get a 10-22. What would you do first to a stock 10-22?
- Thread starter GJ2nd
- Start date
Evil_Lurker
New member
Quote:
...you have to know what you have before you know how to fix it!
If it's like the last 10-22 I bought, you can dry-fire it and see that you need trigger work. With a 8 lb. creepy trigger, you won't be able to see what you've got in the way of barrel accuracy.
The first time I took it out, I fired about a half box and put it back in the truck. What was the point? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
Maybe mine was especially bad, but it made a stock AR and Mini trigger feel pretty nice by comparison. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
...you have to know what you have before you know how to fix it!
If it's like the last 10-22 I bought, you can dry-fire it and see that you need trigger work. With a 8 lb. creepy trigger, you won't be able to see what you've got in the way of barrel accuracy.
The first time I took it out, I fired about a half box and put it back in the truck. What was the point? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
Maybe mine was especially bad, but it made a stock AR and Mini trigger feel pretty nice by comparison. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
t/c223encore
New member
Know what you have before you know what to fix? WRONG!!very first thing to do is fix the things thats wrong with every single stock 10/22 on the planet and thats, put a bolt buffer in it then rework the trigger stuff and modify the bolt release. After all that then decide if you need anything else.
t/c223encore.
t/c223encore.
Quarter Round
New member
t/c I have to disagree with you. He starts the thread by stating he does not want to spend a lot of money. Shooting it and priortizing what he wants to replace first and then observing what improvements he has gained with changing out parts. Granted the trigger group will be the most likely item to be replaced and give him measurable improvement.
JTPinTX
Custom Call Maker
Yeah, but as t/c stated you don't have to spend alot of money to do many of the accuracy tricks on a 10/22. A bolt buffer is like 10 bucks, you can do the auto bolt release mod yourself in about 10 minutes with a dremel (free), and you can polish all the trigger internals yourself (free). Using all the info over at rimfire central, I reworked my trigger group down to a crisp 3# no creep, no overtravel at home with no other expense than wet/dry sandpaper. I will bet that working the trigger will be a must, nearly every factory 10/22 trigger I have felt was awful.
I turned my own pillar on a lathe to pillar bed the stock, modded the v-block for a setscrew myself, squared and re-headspaced the bolt, and worked the firing pin, all at no cost to me. Barrel is currently sent off to one of the forum members over there for an $80 rework (crown and match chamber from Nemohunter). I'm betting it will absolutely drive nails when it comes back, and I have less than $100 over the cost of the factory rifle. Just my take on it though, your mileage may vary...
I turned my own pillar on a lathe to pillar bed the stock, modded the v-block for a setscrew myself, squared and re-headspaced the bolt, and worked the firing pin, all at no cost to me. Barrel is currently sent off to one of the forum members over there for an $80 rework (crown and match chamber from Nemohunter). I'm betting it will absolutely drive nails when it comes back, and I have less than $100 over the cost of the factory rifle. Just my take on it though, your mileage may vary...
Quarter Round
New member
JT, I will agree that if he can do the work on the trigger he won't have much in the other parts and will make a nice basic rifle.
Do you ever see the 10/22 in the 22 magnum?
Do you ever see the 10/22 in the 22 magnum?
JTPinTX
Custom Call Maker
I've seen them in pictures... They are fairly rare to my understanding, but sure would be neat to have one. Lots of folks are converting the 10/22's to 17 HMR also, but I think that it is a little tricky getting the bolt timing down. Don't really know about that though.
Evil_Lurker
New member
What JPT is describing is the way to go if you want to save the maximum amount of money. I can do that auto bolt mod in 15 minutes with a small half-round file.
I can save you $10 more, too. Cut your own buffer from a piece of 1/4" black Delrin rod. It will work as well as anything else you can get.
I got a Bell & Carlson extended mag release at Midway for $4. It's injection-molded plastic, but I like the size and shape of it better than any of the others. It won't ever break, there's no stress on it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
I tried doing my own trigger job years back (without a decent guide to reference) and it didn't come out being all that good.
That doesn't mean a lot of other people haven't been successful, I'm sure they have.
Here's a guide, you need a decent vice to pull it off, though.
10-22 hammer modification
If you have one 10-22 to do, don't have a vise and stones already, and are afraid you'll screw it up and end up with an unsafe firearm, this set starts looking pretty affordable.
Power Custom hammer/sear set
That gives you a sear with adjustable pre-travel so you can adjust all the take-up out. You don't get that with a "do-it-yourself" job, because that Ruger sear is too hard to drill and tap at home. It makes a crisp, light trigger and it's perfectly safe. Use all the Ruger original springs, they work great.
It costs $70, which is a fair price for what you get, in my opinion. Not everyone would agree, I imagine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
I can save you $10 more, too. Cut your own buffer from a piece of 1/4" black Delrin rod. It will work as well as anything else you can get.
I got a Bell & Carlson extended mag release at Midway for $4. It's injection-molded plastic, but I like the size and shape of it better than any of the others. It won't ever break, there's no stress on it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
I tried doing my own trigger job years back (without a decent guide to reference) and it didn't come out being all that good.
That doesn't mean a lot of other people haven't been successful, I'm sure they have.
Here's a guide, you need a decent vice to pull it off, though.
10-22 hammer modification
If you have one 10-22 to do, don't have a vise and stones already, and are afraid you'll screw it up and end up with an unsafe firearm, this set starts looking pretty affordable.
Power Custom hammer/sear set
That gives you a sear with adjustable pre-travel so you can adjust all the take-up out. You don't get that with a "do-it-yourself" job, because that Ruger sear is too hard to drill and tap at home. It makes a crisp, light trigger and it's perfectly safe. Use all the Ruger original springs, they work great.
It costs $70, which is a fair price for what you get, in my opinion. Not everyone would agree, I imagine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
Evil_Lurker
New member
Quote:
(crown and match chamber from Nemohunter).
How did you get the contact info for Nemo?
I spent over an hour looking for it, and couldn't find anything.
(It was probably staring me right in the face the whole time, that's happened before). /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I have a stock carbine barrel I need modified and I'd prefer he did it.
(crown and match chamber from Nemohunter).
How did you get the contact info for Nemo?
I spent over an hour looking for it, and couldn't find anything.
(It was probably staring me right in the face the whole time, that's happened before). /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I have a stock carbine barrel I need modified and I'd prefer he did it.
JTPinTX
Custom Call Maker
Nemo is harder to find than swampfox, I believe swampfox has an ad in the sponsors section. You will find Nemo in the 10/22 barrel section fairly often, just shoot him a PM. I don't know if he can do a carbine barrel or not, he has to cut it back some and it might put the length under legal minimum. Would depend if you have the 18 or 16.25 inch model, ask him. One thing you need to realize though, is they are cutting a full match chamber, it is tight. One of the tricks to rimfire accuracy is jamming the lead bullet into the throat of the rifling, which means that on an auto, manual extraction can be difficult. You could have a Bentz chamber cut, which is kind of a hybrid, function would be better but accuracy worse. Of course, a match chamber extracts just fine under fire because the case is pushing the bolt back, the problem is when you want to manually extract an unfired round using the bolt (extractor)to pull the bullet out of the rifling. Part of the price you pay I guess. (I just edited this post to add this link, it goes to a thread on chambers that Nemo is posting in.)
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272520
The DIY trigger job for the 10/22 is about as involved as it gets. Lots of moving parts that interact, and you can make it worse not better if you aren't careful (and maybe even if you are). Alot of folks seem to have pretty good luck just dropping in a Power Custom or Volquartson hammer. If you don't feel comfortable hacking on your trigger that is the way I would go. You can probably get very decent results with that alone.
Personally, I polished all the internals including the plunger behind the trigger, and stoned the notch on the factory hammer they way the threads over at RFC said. I also cut one coil off the trigger return spring. That got the weight good but introduced alot of creep, which is a fault of the design. To fix the creep then you need to do the JB weld trick they describe between the sear and disconnector, I did that and then it got pretty nice. The 10/22 trigger also has quite a bit of overtravel, so I put an overtravel stop screw on mine, drilled and tapped through the rear of the trigger guard. It doesn't change the weight of the trigger but it changes the feel of it quite a bit as it breaks. Lots of folks wouldn't think all that was worth it but I'm a tightwad and a perpetual tinkerer, I like doing things myself.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272520
The DIY trigger job for the 10/22 is about as involved as it gets. Lots of moving parts that interact, and you can make it worse not better if you aren't careful (and maybe even if you are). Alot of folks seem to have pretty good luck just dropping in a Power Custom or Volquartson hammer. If you don't feel comfortable hacking on your trigger that is the way I would go. You can probably get very decent results with that alone.
Personally, I polished all the internals including the plunger behind the trigger, and stoned the notch on the factory hammer they way the threads over at RFC said. I also cut one coil off the trigger return spring. That got the weight good but introduced alot of creep, which is a fault of the design. To fix the creep then you need to do the JB weld trick they describe between the sear and disconnector, I did that and then it got pretty nice. The 10/22 trigger also has quite a bit of overtravel, so I put an overtravel stop screw on mine, drilled and tapped through the rear of the trigger guard. It doesn't change the weight of the trigger but it changes the feel of it quite a bit as it breaks. Lots of folks wouldn't think all that was worth it but I'm a tightwad and a perpetual tinkerer, I like doing things myself.
Last edited:
t/c223encore
New member
Quote:
Yeah, but as t/c stated you don't have to spend alot of money to do many of the accuracy tricks on a 10/22. A bolt buffer is like 10 bucks, you can do the auto bolt release mod yourself in about 10 minutes with a dremel (free), and you can polish all the trigger internals yourself (free).
Thats exactly what I did, only I like a little creep in the trigger. my trigger pull is around 1 pound. I put a lighter trigger plunger spring in it and polished everything that touched that had to do with the sear hammer stuff.
t/c223encore.
Yeah, but as t/c stated you don't have to spend alot of money to do many of the accuracy tricks on a 10/22. A bolt buffer is like 10 bucks, you can do the auto bolt release mod yourself in about 10 minutes with a dremel (free), and you can polish all the trigger internals yourself (free).
Thats exactly what I did, only I like a little creep in the trigger. my trigger pull is around 1 pound. I put a lighter trigger plunger spring in it and polished everything that touched that had to do with the sear hammer stuff.
t/c223encore.
Evil_Lurker
New member
Okay, I've seen Nemo's posts. I figured with the amount of barrel work he's done, he would have some kind of sponsor link somewhere. I'll PM him.
For my trigger, I got the Power Custom hammer/sear with the tapped sear and a Volquartsen trigger with the overtravel screw (it's wider than the Ruger stock trigger, which is also nice).
That turned out to be just what I wanted for a hunting rifle, about 3 lbs. and no creep. It cost me close to $100, but I'm happy with it.
Quote:
and you can make it worse not better if you aren't careful (and maybe even if you are).
Yeah, I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
My son will be shooting the rifle, and I got worried about the safety aspect and quit.
Quote:
Would depend if you have the 18 or 16.25 inch model, ask him.
18, but I'll verify it with him. If he has to cut it back an inch for a rechamber, that's fine with me.
As far as the extraction goes, I can handle that part. A Volquartsen extractor and a properly headspaced bolt should pull a live round. If not, I've got 2 or 3 Ruger extractors here I can modify until they work.
Thanks for all the tips, brother, I appreciate it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
For my trigger, I got the Power Custom hammer/sear with the tapped sear and a Volquartsen trigger with the overtravel screw (it's wider than the Ruger stock trigger, which is also nice).
That turned out to be just what I wanted for a hunting rifle, about 3 lbs. and no creep. It cost me close to $100, but I'm happy with it.
Quote:
and you can make it worse not better if you aren't careful (and maybe even if you are).
Yeah, I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
My son will be shooting the rifle, and I got worried about the safety aspect and quit.
Quote:
Would depend if you have the 18 or 16.25 inch model, ask him.
18, but I'll verify it with him. If he has to cut it back an inch for a rechamber, that's fine with me.
As far as the extraction goes, I can handle that part. A Volquartsen extractor and a properly headspaced bolt should pull a live round. If not, I've got 2 or 3 Ruger extractors here I can modify until they work.
Thanks for all the tips, brother, I appreciate it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
JTPinTX
Custom Call Maker
Evil, you won't have a problem with the 18, in actuality all he does is cut it back about .2" to get the bullet into the lands, part of the original chamber is still there. He also supplies a .2" shim to go into the dovetail slot under the barrel to take up the slack between the v-block and the dovetail. Then a recrown shaves some off the front also, the mods on one of the short barrels wouldn't put it under 16" by much, but it probably would be under.
My son shoots mine also, and believe me, I tested that trigger rigorously before I turned him loose with it. I was guessing on the trigger pull weight on mine, it might be lighter. I might just have to go in and test it tonight, we are in the middle of a nasty winter storm and I need something to do. I had the trigger on my encore down to 1 lb 5 oz., and had to put some back in it. Swapped the spring out for the next size up and it is 2 lb 4 oz now, just about right.
My son shoots mine also, and believe me, I tested that trigger rigorously before I turned him loose with it. I was guessing on the trigger pull weight on mine, it might be lighter. I might just have to go in and test it tonight, we are in the middle of a nasty winter storm and I need something to do. I had the trigger on my encore down to 1 lb 5 oz., and had to put some back in it. Swapped the spring out for the next size up and it is 2 lb 4 oz now, just about right.
NEIAPredator
New member
Strip it and sell everything but the reciever and order this.
http://www.gunkings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92&products_id=501
http://www.gunkings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92&products_id=501
knockemdown
New member
Mine is a 10/17Mach2 now...
GJ2nd
New member
Quote:
Strip it and sell everything but the reciever and order this.
http://www.gunkings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92&products_id=501
I have seen that but I think the mags.. would look weard.
Thank ya'll for the help.
GJ
Strip it and sell everything but the reciever and order this.
http://www.gunkings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92&products_id=501
I have seen that but I think the mags.. would look weard.
Thank ya'll for the help.
GJ
GJ2nd
New member
Quote:
Quote:
I'd trade it in for a nice Bolt Action........ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Hey Pete,
here's a picture of 5 consecutive 5 shot groups shot at a measured 50 yards by my little dinky 10/22:
They averaged .349 for the 5 groups. Please post a picture of 5 consecutive 5-shot groups from your nice bolt action shot at a measured 50 yards. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Nice hand wrighting?
GJ
Quote:
I'd trade it in for a nice Bolt Action........ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Hey Pete,
here's a picture of 5 consecutive 5 shot groups shot at a measured 50 yards by my little dinky 10/22:
They averaged .349 for the 5 groups. Please post a picture of 5 consecutive 5-shot groups from your nice bolt action shot at a measured 50 yards. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Nice hand wrighting?
GJ