Originally Posted By: KsracerI noticed it looked like you broke many of your close shots low. Are you running a 200yd zero? You are not the first to comment on this.
To me, a coyote is broken up into 5 layers. Lower edge, lower third, middle, upper third, and top edge. I don't use a rangefinder but after how many coyotes I have seen through various thermals, my brain automatically adjusts. One idea is just shoot at the middle layer of the coyote all the time if they are in your point-blank range. This works and is probably the best option for most hunters. However, I like to be more precise than this. One other consideration is a standalone thermal scope sits higher off the bore than a traditional glass scope. Mine with LaRue riser sits 3.3" off bore. This makes a huge difference compared to 1.5 or 2" off bore like most glass scopes.
To answer your question, when I zero my stand alone thermals on my 22-250 for coyote hunting, I use a zero of .5" high at 100 yards. This puts the actual zero at around 70 yards and again at around 235 yards. The most important part of this to me is not where the zero is but what is the max height above zero my bullet reaches and that is 1.2". The other part is how high is the bullet from zero when shooting the majority of my coyotes. If I zeroed it at 1" high at 100, I would be around 2" high right through the sweet spot of where most coyotes are shot for me which is 125-175 yards. If a person aimed dead center (even with a flat shooting 22-250) and it was 2" high, many shots would be hitting the top edge or missing. With a slower caliber like a .223, it can be worse. There are people who want a really high PBR. I understand the logic but I don't want to miss a number of 150 yard coyotes so I can push my PBR out another 50 yards. I want to be flat and fast right through the most common distances I shoot coyotes.
Over years and years of shooting coyotes, my brain just automatically compensates even though many times it wouldn't have to. Based on my ballistics, here is what my brain has been trained:
*0-40 yards: aim top edge. Comes in handy when shooting finishing shots
*40-75 yards: aim upper 1/3
*75-200 yards: aim middle layer of coyote to lower 1/3
*200-275 yards: hold middle layer of coyote
*275-300 yards: hold upper 1/3
*300-325 yards: hold on top edge
*400 yards: hold at the ears
I wouldn't recommend this type of method unless you know your ballistics really well and know your yardages really well, but it works for me. If you can do this, you will be more precise in your shooting, but only if you know the yardages or are really good at estimating.
Although I believe this method is more accurate, I have tried to retrain my brain to just shoot center of coyote especially when using a new thermal and my range estimation is not as strong. However, when I take a quick reflex shot, my brain goes back to what it knows and that is to aim a little low at those common ranges. My brain does the same thing when shooting at fairly extreme elevation changes as well, as a bullet tends to hit higher than your zero when shooting with extreme elevation changes/angles.
Sorry long answer but I believe it is important for people to understand.
I have contemplated moving to a 100 yard zero vs .5" high at 100. For my bullet, this would give me a 100 and 200 yard perfect zero. My max height would only be .5" over zero and it would be even flatter through the sweet spot. I would lose a little PBR, but until I can retrain my brain not to compensate every time, I will most likely still keep my .5" high at 100 zero as my insurance policy.
Bottom line, know your ammo, ballistics, and equipment very well.
