New Gun inbound for the stable for gopher

Sgt_Mike

Sgt_Mike

Well-known member
After my recent workings on the Winchester 121, the bug bit me on the 22LR cartridge.
Meaning having two on hand, the existing Winchester 121 will be ear marked for my Granddaughter. (so here in the next few years it will leave and go to my son's stable for her)
This explains why I asked about the SB Remington 510 I was considering for a project gun in a post. The outcome was it is that it is a "collectable" hence passed on it, so I found a Savage Mark one on Gun broker, not a collectable, perfect I thought, quite a bit of external rust and peep sights. Ok I thought would be a good choice, most will pass this by. The bidding was staying under $20.00 with a $40.00 shipping. Here I will sound like a "lowballer", "cheapskate", or whatever one wishes to assign to my desire to keep the cost down.

So this rifle hits $78.00 dollar range on the bid a few hours before ending, so I applied math, 78.00 + 40.00 (shipping) + 11.80 (taxes) + 25.00 (transfer from Local FFL) + 125.00 (cutting to 16" range, and threading barrel) + 100.00 (D&T for scope base) + 40.00 ( EGW scope base) totals $419.80, less / minus gather materials to redo the stock, parkerize the barreled action, and screws, etc.

At this point I got off the computer went to a FFL, whom I worked as a manager for after I retired from the military. I knew what the normal mark up was so that wasn't a issue. we sat down and went over the math (taxes etc) $303.00 out the door after sales taxes. I sealed the deal, prepaid for the Savage Mark II FV-SR, now waiting on the arrival of the new short range gopher killer / informal paper hole puncher from the warehouse (usually in Louisiana so it will be rather soon I suspect).
The Savage Mark II FV-SR is familiar to many, and is not special, so for those that aren't familiar with the exact model goes in the exact direction I was wanting to do the project in.
5.5 lbs as shipped
16.5" Varmint / bull threaded barrel
13.9" LOP
35 1/4" overall Length
a 0 MOA scope base from the factory
Accutrigger
Synthetic stock (I never have liked a majority of this stocks from the factory, so a wait and see on how it performs, I know it will be "flimsy" in the forearm). and the comb will be low as the design is setup for sights vs a scope. Even the wood stocks they offer has the same flaw for the comb)
It is known as a solid performer for it's price point (MSRP) in the accuracy performance.
I'm figuring the rifle "should" be at the dealer about this friday (the 29th) or maybe monday (the 31st) for me to pick up after the paperwork.

Once I do the transfer, next is looking for a set of correct height of rings for the Leupold Freedom 6.5-18 x40 Tri-MOA (30mm tube, more adjustment than the one on the win 121, this one is my spare optic). Which I'll get the objective as low as I can to the barrel. That factory base is kind of high so I'm thinking low's will work satisfactorily for the height. I'll know for sure when I go to mount the optic. (of course the end result. I'll be in the market for a spare Leupold scope preferably a EFR version vs the side focus over the next 6 months or so).
 
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Holy .......... That was fast I got the call slightly after lunch the Savage mk II was in.

Mounted the Scope, so for the MK II FV SR the factory supplied picatinny height from action is high.
I used Warne Low height 30mm. The Leupold Freedom 6-18 (30mm tube) X 40 has generous room enough that I could have used the same ring for a 50 mm Objective and have a little over 1/8" clearance to the HB /varmint barrel. I suspect that this ring height would hold true for the 1" tube diameter scopes as well.

Yep stock comb is low, now to apply the M-14/21 fix for a low comb - 100mph tape and foam. (several if not all of you DD214 holders know exactly what I'm talking about). Build a field expedient cheek riser.

From the reviews the following downsides was brought out by the youtube posters on that platform on the rifle outside the already noted.
a. Rough bolt / action when installing the bolt.
I applied the same old method I have on every 1903's, 1903A3's, M1's (the real ones), M1 Carbine, M-14 / 21's. As well as all my commercial bolt action and the lug areas etc. before inserting bolt lubricate with Plastilube, / Lubriplate ( bolt grease on the bolt and bolt handle interface to the action / locking lug areas.

Absolutely no roughness noted, it was slightly stiff /resistance as bolt handle engaged the action lug. Cycle about 50 X , now smooth as one could wish for.

b. Stock forearm flex - yep does have that, but plenty of room /clearance in the forearm before forearm is contacting barrel. In order to actually make contact (forearm to barrel) I would have to sling up TIGHT to make contact. Only flaw that needs addressing is the low comb, easy fix.
For firing from bipod, or normal offhand yeah this one doesn't have the posted issues.

c. Safety engagement rough / hangs up. Didn't notice it to be any worse than the military safety engagement, but when I pull the stock I'll most add some rifle grease there as well.

Final check before range day is to loosen and retorque the action screws.
 
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I’ve had several of those Savage Mark II’s…the DIProducts bottom metal is a worthwhile upgrade for cheap. On the ones I had you could flex the factory bottom metal with your fingers. I kept having flyers despite having tried multiple different action screw torque settings. The screws were loosening up over time. The bottom metal upgrade fixed that and the resulting flyers. You may not have that issue, but if you do, that may be why.
I think the model you got is great for the price and checks a lot of boxes.
I used cheap epoxy from Harbor freight to take out the forend flex. I think it took 2tubes if memory serves. Spray foam in the buttstock.
Good luck with it, should shoot great for you. Keep us posted.
 
@DoubleLungRage
Yes Sir,
Pretty much the exact same, except the color of the stock and barrel length looks like. I do like the paint scheme on your's.
The trigger sucking hmm outside adjusting oiling and polishing the mating sear surfaces offhand. Don't know exactly why the trigger is not to your liking.

As of right now I've not dug out the 22 snap caps, nor any fired brass. To check the trigger pull or see if any adjustment are needed from the factory setting.
Right now looking at the comb and a pool noodle to see how to make a cut in the foam for the cheek riser, which I'll overlap with eva foam. Here is where a hot knife would be great to have on hand for trimming the noodle into shape. Which I am wanting to have done before a round goes down range or getting to address any trigger adjustment short comings if any, it maybe perfectly fine as is. (which BTW is what I'm doing now.)

@greengt88
Thank You for the heads up. The epoxy in the method for reinforcing of the forearm I was aware of. The bottom metal being flimsy I've not heard of, until you posted. I'll keep that in mind.
 
Sgt_Mike said:
@DoubleLungRage
Yes Sir,
Pretty much the exact same, except the color of the stock and barrel length looks like. I do like the paint scheme on your's.
The trigger sucking hmm outside adjusting oiling and polishing the mating sear surfaces offhand. Don't know exactly why the trigger is not to your liking.

As of right now I've not dug out the 22 snap caps, nor any fired brass. To check the trigger pull or see if any adjustment are needed from the factory setting.
Right now looking at the comb and a pool noodle to see how to make a cut in the foam for the cheek riser, which I'll overlap with eva foam. Here is where a hot knife would be great to have on hand for trimming the noodle into shape. Which I am wanting to have done before a round goes down range or getting to address any trigger adjustment short comings if any, it maybe perfectly fine as is. (which BTW is what I'm doing now.)

@greengt88
Thank You for the heads up. The epoxy in the method for reinforcing of the forearm I was aware of. The bottom metal being flimsy I've not heard of, until you posted. I'll keep that in mind.
Click to expand...

The only thing I've done to it is adjust it, hoping that it would make it better. It just has a huge amount of travel and very spongy.
 
Sgt_Mike said:
@DoubleLungRage
Yes Sir,
Pretty much the exact same, except the color of the stock and barrel length looks like. I do like the paint scheme on your's.
The trigger sucking hmm outside adjusting oiling and polishing the mating sear surfaces offhand. Don't know exactly why the trigger is not to your liking.

As of right now I've not dug out the 22 snap caps, nor any fired brass. To check the trigger pull or see if any adjustment are needed from the factory setting.
Right now looking at the comb and a pool noodle to see how to make a cut in the foam for the cheek riser, which I'll overlap with eva foam. Here is where a hot knife would be great to have on hand for trimming the noodle into shape. Which I am wanting to have done before a round goes down range or getting to address any trigger adjustment short comings if any, it maybe perfectly fine as is. (which BTW is what I'm doing now.)

@greengt88
Thank You for the heads up. The epoxy in the method for reinforcing of the forearm I was aware of. The bottom metal being flimsy I've not heard of, until you posted. I'll keep that in mind.
Click to expand...
Savage may be making the bottom metal thicker nowadays…this was over a decade ago.
I do believe you need to use the longer screws.
Mine were very finicky on torque and would not hold for more than a few mags.
 
Ok the DD214 cheek riser is done and ready.
Materials used scrap pool noodle (man gotta just LUV that hot pink , lol it was left over scrap from the daughter's project for insulating the chickens' water piping) and a EVA foam liner aka shelf liner for the box stores.
1756415346904.jpeg

cut and formed the shelf liner was super glued to the cut noodle with the tools used.
Here in the roughing of the shape I used painter tape between the noodle and the stock to get the height etc where it needed to be to get a proper eye relief postion once satisfied I wrapped it in the shelf liner.

1756415426815.jpeg


Here I went to find the 100mph tape (aka duct tape)... Rats no black, only green and silver. Hm to Lowes I go I had decided to give the Gorilla brand a try.
At the store there is two differing offering the regular and the super adhesive labeled permanent, not too sure about that I might need to move it at some point . Ok the less expensive variety it is. (close up first view)
1756415772846.jpeg

check for bolt clearance....
1756416045531.jpeg

now the overall which looks the smae as the above but the bolt in battery.
1756416120567.jpeg

I Probably could have done a smoother more professional job with a hot knife to actually develop a taper in the pad bottom section to be in line with the stock. But I think this will do for now.
One can't see from the angle I took the pictures of. But the noodle shape is cut in a straight line on the back side of the comb, so no round shape on the back side of the stock.

Cost? as I had the noodle/shelf liner / super glue on hand. just $6.00 for the tape. Had I used the green. It would have just been my time.
Later I "may" sit her in a MDT field stock, IDK yet.

Edit to add:
I just today (August 29th) called Savage and did two things one register over the phone for warranty, the other discuss where the accutrigger adjustment tool is?? seems mine was missing. One is inbound via USPS, The Rep she was kind enough to let me know when this one was made, LOL 30 days ago, so July this year. that phone call was pleasure as she was extremely responsive, and very forthcoming about the product.
 

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I posted in the "things that amuse me" area that I found out that the 6-18 x40 Tri-moa reticle scope I originally stuck on the Savage MkII needed the parallax adjustment adjusted. So I pulled that scope and installed the scope from the dedicated PD AR-15 (6.5-20 X50 and swapped it to the savage. Off to the range I went, did some testing at the 50 Yd line.
CCI standard again proved to be consistent. I had a old partial box of Federal Gold Match thought I would give that a try.
1756941322715.jpeg

now for the federal Gold Match
1756941360748.jpeg

Both are 20 shot groups. seeing how that wiped out my supply of the Federal Gold Match (man I wish they still made that) I then moved to the 75 yard line and zeroed again with CCI STD V.
while surfing around I actually found some PD targets I could print on 8-1/2x11 paper that scaled out correctly. I stuck them up at the 75 Yard line fired at the center mass to see the results, then did head shots to see how that went.
1756941632438.jpeg

OK then I moved to the 100 yard line, keeping the 75 yard zero I calculated that if I aimed at the eye / head I should get a reasonable shot grouping in the center mass.
1756941776166.jpeg



On the way home, my buddy Ed called and he told me another place in town, that had some reloading supplies. Naturally I go there check it out and observe a Savage 93R17 in a wood stock varmint barrel contour,,, for less than this rifle.... pondering another addition (Tomorrow, I know I could sneak it in un detected. put a empty gun case in the truck tell the wife I'm going shooting......you can fill in the blanks lol).
I'm stuck in a loop HELLLP. Do I really need a .17 HMR ??????
 
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Well Sarge, I quit acquiring firearms some few years ago but, back then when I was questioned by the spouse as to why I needed another firearm I walked her to her closet and bravely pointed out how literally stuffed it was/is. That worked for a short time until I came home one day with five...5 (count em) used Ruger 10/22s. Justified that purchase by saying they were for the grand kids. You would think that with 63 years of marriage a man has earned some leeway!
 
22magnum22 said:
You would think that with 63 years of marriage a man has earned some leeway!
Click to expand...
Duhh yeah I would think so and it would go vice versa IMO. Honestly 5 used 10/22's I can totally see that ... "for the children" as Nancy would say LOL. Only goes so far I guess.
I've not tried that one.

Oh a further side note would some be interested in that savage mk II 22 going into a MDT field stock to see if the groups would be better???

Oh don't know if I stated where I aimed on the 100 yard PD target, I used the eyeball /head region as the aim point to validate the drop.
 
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