Nightforce doesnt gather light?

TooMuch, tritium is gas left over from nuclear reactors. I have read or heard it
all comes from Israel already in the glass viles. Have no way of verify any of it
other than the internet though.
 
Originally Posted By: ShoesTrijicon uses tritium as well. They call it "tritium-phosphor", probably where the confusion came from.

Exactly...


And to clear up any confusion derived therefrom...


Tritium - (also known as hydrogen-3) is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tritium

Tritium illumination - is the use of gaseous tritium, a radioactive isotope of hydrogen, to create visible light. Tritium emits electrons through beta decay, and when they interact with a phosphor material, fluorescent light is created, a process called radioluminescence. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tritium_illumination

Phosphor - A phosphor, most generally, is a substance that exhibits the phenomenon of luminescence. Phosphors are often transition metal compounds or rare earth compounds of various types. The most common uses of phosphors are in CRT displays and fluorescent lights. CRT phosphors were standardized beginning around World War II and designated by the letter "P" followed by a number. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphor

Phosphorus - the chemical element named for its light-emitting behavior, emits light due to chemiluminescence, not phosphorescence.

 
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I know what tritium is. My radiation doses are monitored by the NRC. I have worked in about 7 different nuclear plants and am a certified full radiation worker. Seen many reactors up close and personal like. Fun stuff. Very interesting.

It is just that that I have never heard of Trijicon refer to "tritium-phosphor", as you guys say. Only tritium..........
 
Originally Posted By: bigwheelerTooMuch, tritium is gas left over from nuclear reactors. I have read or heard it
all comes from Israel already in the glass viles. Have no way of verify any of it
other than the internet though.

Tritium occurs naturally as a gas. Tritium left over from a reactor would occur in the form of water, not gas........
 
fw707,
Ok you got me. I guess that went right over my head. I have the Swarovski 6 x 18 x50 and a pair of their binos because they paid me in product instead of cash, which was alright by me. Love Swarovski glass.
 
Originally Posted By: fw707
I was at the sporting goods store a couple of months ago, and the guy behind the counter told me that Swarovski scopes were made by Leupold.
I didn't know that.

Bump for a funny.

Jeff you forgot a smilie of some kind .
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You guys are trying to make me think to hard here.
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All I know is if you want to hunt. Any later than a NF will let you. Buy a night vision scope.
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I've heard some VERY interesting stuff in sporting stores. Probably the most memorable is "a 30/30 will knock a squirrel right of a tree"
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Good info to know!
 
Originally Posted By: coleridgeI've heard some VERY interesting stuff in sporting stores. Probably the most memorable is "a 30/30 will knock a squirrel right of a tree"
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Good info to know!

Yea,but will it kill it ?
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Greetings!

Am new to this site. Hope you don't mind me chining in....

I live about 3 min. from Nightforce. I know just about everyone that works there. I have been an Outfitter here in Idaho since 1984. hunting and Fishing. I have seen about every optic ever built. NF products are close to the top of the line. Hopefully one of the salesmen from Georgia will chine in about your ligh gathering qusetions. They know their stuff.
 
I run both NF's and Trijicon Accupoints,NF's glass is pretty darn good and just rock solid built and repeatable turning the turrets. I think their glass is close to the same as my Accupoint.

But for Fox hunting at night with a red light the Accupoint with Tritium/Fiber optic green dot is better than anything i have ever used. No need to worry about turning on or off and the dot is about as crisp and small as it gets.

Also if someone is trying to see how bright a NF is @ 22x at low light your not gonna collect hardly any light at that magnifaction.
 
Originally Posted By: microfish8Greetings!
I have seen about every optic ever built. NF products are close to the top of the line.


I think the majority of us on here share your opinion.
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Welcome to Predator Masters!!
 
The limiting factor of the amount of useable light a scope transmits to your eye has been & always will be EXIT PUPIL.

Objective diameter (in mm) divided by magnification power = exit pupil (in mm) Depending on YOUR eyes, how much light YOU can process is somewhere between 4-9mm, with a good average being 6-7mm.

Consider this. YOUR pupil can dilate (open) up to 6mm. That is the maximum amount of light your eye can process.

So then, if you want to compare scopes, do the math beforehand & set the mag ring on each so that the exit pupil value is equal. THEN, you can begin to compare glass quality, coatings...yada yada

To YOUR 6mm dilated eyes, the baby NXS 2.5-10x24 is has the same 6mm exit pupil on 4X as the full size NXS 3-15x56 does on 9.3X. (56/6 = 9.3)
Sooo, thanks to the larger objective of the full sized NXS, you can ideally use MORE of that scope's magnification range for low/no light shooting.

Now consider a NXS 5.5-22x50. You will only be able to get to 8.3X before you notice it becoming 'dimmer' than the 3-15x56 on 9.3x power. (50/6 = 8.3)

Comprehende?

So, of the three just I described, the most useable scope for low/no light shooting is obviously the 3-15x56. A good bit of the magnification range of that particular scope will net you a bright view, thanks to that >6mm exit pupil from 3x up to 9.3X magnification.

The 'baby' NXS is will only look 'bright' from 2.5x-4X power. Above that magnification, the sight picture will get progressive dimmer as you crank up the mag ring.

Same for the 5.5-22x50. Based on your "ideal" 6mm exit pupil, that scope's 'brightest' range is between 5.5x-8.3X magnification.

So in the end, it's up to the shooter to define what performance he's wanting from his optic. Then, choose the model wisely.

Anyone who makes a 'blanket statement the "XXX" brand gathers more light than "YYY" brand doesn't have a friggin' clue what they are talkin' about...



 
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Originally Posted By: knockemdownThe limiting factor of the amount of useable light a scope transmits to your eye has been & always will be EXIT PUPIL.

Objective diameter (in mm) divided by magnification power = exit pupil (in mm) Depending on YOUR eyes, how much light YOU can process is somewhere between 4-9mm, with a good average being 6-7mm.

Consider this. YOUR pupil can dilate (open) up to 6mm. That is the maximum amount of light your eye can process.

So then, if you want to compare scopes, do the math beforehand & set the mag ring on each so that the exit pupil value is equal. THEN, you can begin to compare glass quality, coatings...yada yada

To YOUR 6mm dilated eyes, the baby NXS 2.5-10x24 is has the same 6mm exit pupil on 4X as the full size NXS 3-15x56 does on 9.3X. (56/6 = 9.3)
Sooo, thanks to the larger objective of the full sized NXS, you can ideally use MORE of that scope's magnification range for low/no light shooting.

Now consider a NXS 5.5-22x50. You will only be able to get to 8.3X before you notice it becoming 'dimmer' than the 3-15x56 on 9.3x power. (50/6 = 8.3)

Comprehende?

So, of the three just I described, the most useable scope for low/no light shooting is obviously the 3-15x56. A good bit of the magnification range of that particular scope will net you a bright view, thanks to that >6mm exit pupil from 3x up to 9.3X magnification.

The 'baby' NXS is will only look 'bright' from 2.5x-4X power. Above that magnification, the sight picture will get progressive dimmer as you crank up the mag ring.

Same for the 5.5-22x50. Based on your "ideal" 6mm exit pupil, that scope's 'brightest' range is between 5.5x-8.3X magnification.

So in the end, it's up to the shooter to define what performance he's wanting from his optic. Then, choose the model wisely.

Anyone who makes a 'blanket statement the "XXX" brand gathers more light than "YYY" brand doesn't have a friggin' clue what they are talkin' about...



Geez there, knockemdown!
Did I say something to make you mad??
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What Freddy said is spot on, as usual. I already knew all that, but I'm just too lazy to type it out.

One point I would like to make, however, is that if I am hunting in a low light situation, and I have to crank the scope up to 8-9X just to see what I'm shooting at, I'm probably not going to take that shot, for numerous reasons.

So to me, the difference between a 40mm and a 50mm, as far as exit pupil is concerned, is a moot point. I'd rather a faster handling, lighter scope, mounted lower, than one I can get a hair more amount of useful magnification out of in low light.........
 
Originally Posted By: knockemdownThe limiting factor of the amount of useable light a scope transmits to your eye has been & always will be EXIT PUPIL.

Objective diameter (in mm) divided by magnification power = exit pupil (in mm) Depending on YOUR eyes, how much light YOU can process is somewhere between 4-9mm, with a good average being 6-7mm.

Consider this. YOUR pupil can dilate (open) up to 6mm. That is the maximum amount of light your eye can process.

So then, if you want to compare scopes, do the math beforehand & set the mag ring on each so that the exit pupil value is equal. THEN, you can begin to compare glass quality, coatings...yada yada

To YOUR 6mm dilated eyes, the baby NXS 2.5-10x24 is has the same 6mm exit pupil on 4X as the full size NXS 3-15x56 does on 9.3X. (56/6 = 9.3)
Sooo, thanks to the larger objective of the full sized NXS, you can ideally use MORE of that scope's magnification range for low/no light shooting.

Now consider a NXS 5.5-22x50. You will only be able to get to 8.3X before you notice it becoming 'dimmer' than the 3-15x56 on 9.3x power. (50/6 = 8.3)

Comprehende?

So, of the three just I described, the most useable scope for low/no light shooting is obviously the 3-15x56. A good bit of the magnification range of that particular scope will net you a bright view, thanks to that >6mm exit pupil from 3x up to 9.3X magnification.

The 'baby' NXS is will only look 'bright' from 2.5x-4X power. Above that magnification, the sight picture will get progressive dimmer as you crank up the mag ring.

Same for the 5.5-22x50. Based on your "ideal" 6mm exit pupil, that scope's 'brightest' range is between 5.5x-8.3X magnification.

So in the end, it's up to the shooter to define what performance he's wanting from his optic. Then, choose the model wisely.

Anyone who makes a 'blanket statement the "XXX" brand gathers more light than "YYY" brand doesn't have a friggin' clue what they are talkin' about...





quick question: couldn't the picture be percievably "brighter" or "darker" depending on the lense quality and coatings no matter what the exit pupil calculation? (e.g., N.C. Star vs. S&B) while both scopes may have the same exit pupil and allow the same amount of light to pass through i always considered the exit pupil calculation to be more applicable for comparing the same quality glass in different obj. lense size.

is that the wrong way to look at it?
 
How can the same amount of light be brighter or darker?

What can be different, IMO, is contrast and color rendition, as well as the "flatness" of the image.

This where some fail to understand the difference. A good example would be to compare a Zeiss Conquest to a VX3. Some will swear the Zeiss is brighter. But it is a different type of image that it portrays. Almost "glossy". The VX3 has a flatter image, and better color rendition, IMO. Both are plenty good.........
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunWhat Freddy said is spot on, as usual. I already knew all that, but I'm just too lazy to type it out.

One point I would like to make, however, is that if I am hunting in a low light situation, and I have to crank the scope up to 8-9X just to see what I'm shooting at, I'm probably not going to take that shot, for numerous reasons.

So to me, the difference between a 40mm and a 50mm, as far as exit pupil is concerned, is a moot point. I'd rather a faster handling, lighter scope, mounted lower, than one I can get a hair more amount of useful magnification out of in low light.........

i'm a little confused. if you crank your scope up and it allows you to see what you're shooting at and better identify it then why wouldn't you take the shot?

why would mounting the scope lower be advantageous? isn't it more important to have proper and consistant cheak weld?
 
If I have to crank my power up that high to identify my target, it is probably too dark to be doing any responsible shooting. I am talking hunting in the dark, or near dark here.

Mounting the scope lower gives you a better cheek weld and is faster to get your eye on target.........
 


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