Rem-Age Project...Tell me the pros and cons

Originally Posted By: shelton573Originally Posted By: fw707Shelton, if I remember correctly the end of the set screw was like a pin that goes into an unthreaded hole drilled in the receiver. The recoil lug is threaded and the Allen head set screw tightens up through the lug until the unthreaded end seats into the hole in the face of the action.
Factory Remington actions are not drilled for the pin. Some gunsmiths drill the action and pin a lug when installing a new barrel. Most custom actions are already drilled and have a pin included with them.
The CBI lug gives you the option, but you can just take the screw out and do the job without it as long as you have a way to keep the lug and action indexed correctly as everything screws together.

Yep, Tim already covered it.
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Thanks for the info guys. After reading further on the taper loc wedge from Northland, he states that it eliminates the need to notch or drill the pin hole so I would say that is the route I will go. It will continue paying for itself with future builds I would think.
FWIW Northland explained their wedge system to me the same way.
 
I'd like to see one of these put together. Can't grasp the whole nut and head spacing idea,but then again I've not seen any new barrel put on in front of me.
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: roky0702Check out Bugholes (Southern Precision Rifles) new Bugnut setup here: http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hi...=541&page=1

I talked to Greg about this system a few months ago, but this is the first I've seen since then.
Every single dealing I've had with Greg in the last several years has been first class. I expect this new system will be the same.

Same here, I've gotten a couple actions and barrels from him and am pretty interested in his new system it looks much better than the Savage style nut
 
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Originally Posted By: roky0702Check out Bugholes (Southern Precision Rifles) new Bugnut setup here: http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hi...=541&page=1

I just read about this this morning and am intrigued. Too bad I already ordered the nut for my next build!

I think it is worth noting that he uses that on un-blueprinted Remingtons. I did not realize that changing the threads was part of the blueprinting process. I don't think he'd do that if he had seen negative effects, so that makes Remage even more practical.
 
Originally Posted By: springerI think it is worth noting that he uses that on un-blueprinted Remingtons. I did not realize that changing the threads was part of the blueprinting process. I don't think he'd do that if he had seen negative effects, so that makes Remage even more practical.

The action threads are opened up and redone when trued, but you can't do that with Remage setups. The threads can be "cleaned up" and maybe the face of the action squared, but it isn't necessary. I honestly wouldn't bother.
 
I smoked the barrel on my old 6mm, 700. A buddy of mine likes to use Savage actions to build on, due to the ease of the process.

I decided that I would try the Rem-Age barrel, changing to a .260. My buddy helped me with the barreling job. It is a fantastic shooter. It is the second Criterion barrel that I have and now, they are the only barrels that I would consider.

Both rifles are 1/2-3/4 moa or less with [beeep] near any load.
 
Shelton,
If you'll call Greg he'll give you all the info. He's a super guy and always has time to talk.
Right now (3 PM) would probably be a good time to catch him.
He runs machines and does his gunsmith work all day and then takes calls for a while before closing down for the day.
 
Originally Posted By: shelton573Originally Posted By: roky0702Check out Bugholes (Southern Precision Rifles) new Bugnut setup here: http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hi...=541&page=1

Anyone have any idea when he will have this system ready to go and will it use a pre-fit version of all the barrel brands he has listed on his website?

I believe you can order now, it's just not on the website yet. Give him a call.
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeI'd like to see one of these put together. Can't grasp the whole nut and head spacing idea,but then again I've not seen any new barrel put on in front of me.



The chambered barrel must be installed so the shoulder to breech face distance is correct. On a Remington, this is done by cutting the shoulder so it locks up against the action and sets the proper headspace. On a Savage (or any) barrel nut system, there is no shoulder. You screw the barrel in with a "go" gauge (correctly sized brass can also be used in a pinch) until it stops against the gauge. You back it off a fraction to make up for the tightening which will occur when you tighten the nut, then you torque the nut. This securely locks the barrel into the action at the correct headspace. Then you verify that the action easily closes on the "go" gauge, but not on the "no go" gauge. A "go" gauge with a couple layers of Scotch tape on the back can be used as a "no go" gauge.

Done!

I just finished my fourth one tonight...
 
I haven't heard any "cons" and actually don't really see any except maybe one. For a person wanting to use the new barrel nut system that bugholes use. you will need the new style wrench. If one rifle was all you planned on building, the $60 for the wrench is a little pricey. Not so much if you planned on using it for future builds. With the Savage style nut, while not as sleek looking, the wrench will work on both Savage nuts and remage systems. I have one Remington I am thinking about using a remage system on and the extra cost of the special wrench is something I will have to ponder on.
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeAhhh....
Now I got it, the remage nut is a jam nut.

Thanks

Long threads...run it down till head space is correct, lock the jam nut...is this the right concept?
 
That's the way I see it.

I was hung up on it having a shoulder like a rem barrel. I was like how in the heck is that going to work ? !

If I can see it normally I understand it.
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The posted video is pretty good.

springer's write up is good too.
 
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I had one done recently like this. originally a 700 sps 22-250. Burned barrel up, decided to have a 7twist 22-250 put together. I used a green mount 7twist barrel. Standard 22-250 running 75 amaxs. I had to run a barrel nut for this one. I believe I used a Mcrees barrel nut and used a PTG non pinned Lug. As far as the question I read earlier of the barrel nut clearing in the stock. I cannot answer that as mine sits in a mcrees chasis with plenty of clearance, even for this truck axel of a barrel. Its straight tapper 1.06" I believe. As far as accuracy, it makes tiny little groups. Havent really shot it at any distance yet, other than coyotes. I will stretch it out in few months.

Here is few pictures of it.

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This is my first barrel nut rifle. I see no reason not to do. Accuracy is just as good as some of my others. I like the idea of it on this rifle, considering I am sure ill burn this one up farely quick.
 
They make a fixture that keeps the lug in the correct position. Some use a pinned recoil lug also.
 
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