Shoulder bump question (added some more info)

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pyscodog

Active member
Thinking I already know the answer but...here goes!

Can you bump the shoulder of a case with a sizing die? My 7mag case are acting like they could use a bump and I don't have a bump die. Thanks!!

After reading all the posts, maybe I should explain my problem. Factory Hornady 162 grain SST's no problem. My handloads-They chamber pretty good, some a little stiff closing the bolt. AFTER they have been fired, bolt lifts easy but extraction is very difficult to the point of having to tap on the bolt to get it started opening. After the neck clears the chamber, no problem.I might add, some do the same after resizing and not loaded or fired. My buddy said I needed to bump the shoulder. This is several times fired Winchester brass that was shot in an Encore rifle.
 
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I do it all the time and it works for me.
Now everybody's gonna say I'm an idiot and it can't be done.

lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: pyscodogDo you just make it cam over harder?

It all depends on your press, die, and shell holder.
If your die is too short you need to change the shell holder.
The whole "cam over harder" thing is a farce.
 
best thing to do is get you a case gauge for your caliber
what i do in a bolt rifle,i take a case thats been fired in the rifle and measure it in the gauge.
then you can adjust your die accordingly,example,in my .223 it measures .047 in my target rifle i use forster dies,and i like to set them at .049,that way the case is a tight snug fit with a little restance when closing the bolt.
i also have other ways to measure other calibers,like a steel collar,put it on the shoulder and measure with calipers
 
Explain the farce FW. I bought a set of hornady dies today and thenset up said to set up without the cam over. With my RCBS dies I set them up to cam over fo4 the first loading and them back it off for future loadings to just bump the shoulder. I have also heard arguments about neck sizing with a full length sizing die. So learn me sumthin.
 
Originally Posted By: sandy hicksExplain the farce FW. ------
So learn me sumthin.

Do you have calipers and a bump gauge that is specific for the shoulder angle of your cartridge?
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: sandy hicksExplain the farce FW. ------
So learn me sumthin.

Do you have calipers and a bump gauge that is specific for the shoulder angle of your cartridge?


Because if you don't I can't learn you nuthin'.
 
Originally Posted By: josebdbest thing to do is get you a case gauge for your caliber



This ^ ^ ^ ^

Until you have a definite way of taking measurements you're simply guessing. There are other ways, but a case gauge like the RCBS precision mic makes things much easier. There are numerous videos on YouTube that show how to use it.

But to answer your question, yes you can bump the shoulder back with your sizing die.
 
I use RCBS f/l sizing dies and had an instance come up where I was asking myself the same question. I have 2 Browning Abolt 280 stainless stalkers (yes the exact same gun). My reloads in one will not allow me to close the bolt in the other. I set my dies up originally to cam over as well. My borther had the same issue and he set his dies to where the shell holder hits the bottom of the die without caming (about 3/4 stroke). Put a little wt. on it at the bottom of the stroke. Now they go in both guns smooth as silk. He had similar issues and has set all of his dies up this way without issue.
 
Originally Posted By: HidalgoOriginally Posted By: josebdbest thing to do is get you a case gauge for your caliber



This ^ ^ ^ ^

Until you have a definite way of taking measurements you're simply guessing. There are other ways, but a case gauge like the RCBS precision mic makes things much easier. There are numerous videos on YouTube that show how to use it.

But to answer your question, yes you can bump the shoulder back with your sizing die.

Your post is 110% correct.
thumbup1.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 10ring1I use RCBS f/l sizing dies and had an instance come up where I was asking myself the same question. I have 2 Browning Abolt 280 stainless stalkers (yes the exact same gun). My reloads in one will not allow me to close the bolt in the other. I set my dies up originally to cam over as well. My borther had the same issue and he set his dies to where the shell holder hits the bottom of the die without caming (about 3/4 stroke). Put a little wt. on it at the bottom of the stroke. Now they go in both guns smooth as silk. He had similar issues and has set all of his dies up this way without issue.

What does that prove?
 
The top ones are the Sinclair bullet comparator and bump gages set up. I have no idea what the bottom is.

Greg

Is the bottom one a barrel or action vise?
 
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Ok, I have done some home work. What are your thoughts on the hornady comparator set and their headspace guage set up. I see that I need some tools.
 
Originally Posted By: sandy hicksOk, I have done some home work. What are your thoughts on the hornady comparator set and their headspace guage set up. I see that I need some tools.

I use the case gages all the time for shoulder bump. I am using the bullet comparator also. It works well for making ammunition that shoots well.

I had been using it to measure bullets as in shank, boat tails, distance to ogive etc. but decided the chamfer was too great and was screwing my numbers up. So I took some cases and set the necks 0.001 below bullet diameter with my mandrels. The closer to bullet size lets me get closer to the true measurement.

Greg
 
Belted magnums sometimes require a special die to deal with the belt or the area just in front of. When the OP said Encore, alarm bells went off. Break open actions can create special problems. I'm remembering a long ago post about this very subject. Does anyone remember the guy that made these special dies?
 
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Originally Posted By: sandy hicksOk, I have done some home work. What are your thoughts on the hornady comparator set and their headspace guage set up. I see that I need some tools.

These guys are correct .... you NEED these gauges. Without them you have no idea what you're actually loading. Did you read ackleyman's thread about brass failure? That is a definite possibility unless you are measuring with a baseline measurement. (not saying that he did anything wrong)

I tend to use the Hornady gauge set more than the RCBS mic, but they will both get you where you need to be.

Since I can't order from MidSouth I tend to favor MidwayUSA and they generally have these things in stock.
 
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