VORTEX 4-16X44 HS LR HELP

S

SledAgent

New member
Ok for starts I'm totally new to all this and i have been doing research on this scope trying to get this and not give up so guys help.
I have a vortex 4-16x44 Lr HS with throw leaver and level bubble it is mounted on a 308 Dpms Sass i was told i have the wrong scope if I'm trying to make bulls eyes shots due to the 1/2 moa my wife purchased the scope for me for Christmas and was told by the seller that this was the scope for me and not to purchase the viper 6.5-20x50 mil, I really don't understand the scope or how to get good hits due to the 1/2 clicks i asked this question on the Hide and they responded that i had a Elmmer Fudd scope and just made fun of my need of advice and help.Do any one have any range report targets, OR pics of this scope mounted on your guns ETC, that you can share with me. should i keep this scope? should i sell it.Is there any way i can make bulls eye shot at long distances.
Thank you guys for your help
 
If it is 1/2 inch per click at 100 at 200 each click is 1" at 300 it is 1 1/2" per click , @ 400 each click will move you 2". If you have anymore questions pm me.
 
The scope is fine. The hide if you dont have a NF, USOptics or S&B your under scoped. Iv got NF and Us optics and I got 2 Vortex and love them. Iv got a 2.5x10x44 HS on a 300WSM pistol. Heres what it shoots.
300-WSM-xp-100-first-group.jpg
 
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bfr4570 said:
The scope is fine. The hide if you dont have a NF, USOptics or S&B your under scoped. Iv got NF and Us optics and I got 2 Vortex and love them. Iv got a 2.5x10x44 HS on a 300WSM pistol. Heres what it shoots.

You are SOO correct about the hide I love it here you guys really help.What scopes would you compare to your vortex.Nice shooting!
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You've got a good scope. Don't fret about some of the guys on the "hide". Most of them are good guys and will help. There are a few elitists, however, who think if you can't afford a $4000.00 scope, you shouldn't even be shooting. IMHO, those are the kind of people who buy really high end gear for 'status'. My guess is they can't use it to its full capability anyway. So, just ignore them.

As for the scope, it's has more of a hunter's reticle. If that is what you're going to use it for, you're fine.

It has a ranging reticle but it's not as precise as, say a Mil or MOA type with dots or hash marks covering a wider range. You'll have to do more interpolation with it. Not to say it won't help you put 'em where you want 'em. It just requires a little more knowledge of your cartridge ballistics. Also, it's a SFP (second focal plane). Just means that the reticle is calibrated at max magnification only. So any ranging or hold overs have to be done at max power. (or sub multiples of it)

Half MOA clicks are less precise than 1/4 MOA, of course.

Don't know why the guy who sold it said not to get the PST. If you're going to do long range style, tactical shooting, that's what I'd choose in that price range.

If what you have suits your purpose, read the manual and have fun with it. If some of the terminology or setup is confusing to you, just post here and we'll try to help.
 
Originally Posted By: HedgeYou've got a good scope. Don't fret about some of the guys on the "hide". Most of them are good guys and will help. There are a few elitists, however, who think if you can't afford a $4000.00 scope, you shouldn't even be shooting. IMHO, those are the kind of people who buy really high end gear for 'status'. My guess is they can't use it to its full capability anyway. So, just ignore them.

As for the scope, it's has more of a hunter's reticle. If that is what you're going to use it for, you're fine.

It has a ranging reticle but it's not as precise as, say a Mil or MOA type with dots or hash marks covering a wider range. You'll have to do more interpolation with it. Not to say it won't help you put 'em where you want 'em. It just requires a little more knowledge of your cartridge ballistics. Also, it's a SFP (second focal plane). Just means that the reticle is calibrated at max magnification only. So any ranging or hold overs have to be done at max power. (or sub multiples of it)

Half MOA clicks are less precise than 1/4 MOA, of course.

Don't know why the guy who sold it said not to get the PST. If you're going to do long range style, tactical shooting, that's what I'd choose in that price range.

If what you have suits your purpose, read the manual and have fun with it. If some of the terminology or setup is confusing to you, just post here and we'll try to help.

I don't think no place like the hide is created equally when, the administrator will post don't attack members but let members with high post count call other members worthless [beeep]@ks, Here the actual post to me

We don't need worthless [beeep] like you on here.
Because I was accused of inflating post to sell stuff by one, and then other elitists members with high post counts followed. And I had no idea what that meant till it was explain to me. And that was not the case because I have nothing to sell I was only trying to be part of the forums and answer other members with questions to the best of my knowledge and experience. No one deserves to be cursed at and called names over posting. I like it here and the guys are very helpful and mature ,ANYWAY back to the subject at hand.

I can't afford the pst because its a little over my budget, what was said was the pst optics were the same as the hs/lr minus the illuminated reticle and reticle style, I was looking at the viper 6.5-20x50 but when my wife went to purchase it for me for Christmas there were none in stock and she was told that the LR would serve the same purpose. She didn't know any better so I'm stuck with it and I'm just trying to figure out how to make it work from members with experience and knowledge. I totally admit I'm new to this and still learning and I have been doing research but when I have a question on what I read or hear I need help from the pros, and the guys here at predator masters are awesome and none of them have made me feel like and idiot and I thank you guys for that.
Hedge can you explain to me how to read and understand the hash marks on the hs/lr reticle? Also what did you mean by I would have to do interpolation with it?
 
SledAgent -

Man, you surely were treated badly on the "hide". I'd drop a note to the mods and report the posts. I've seen them treat some new guys pretty rough and it's certainly uncalled for.
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The hash marks: on that reticle, they're designed to give you aim points at different ranges, based on the amount of drop your bullet has at a given range. Say you're shooting what they call a Class A cartridge; Using the main cross hairs sighted in at 100 yards and knowing your bullet will drop 3 inches at 200 yards, you would use the second hashmark instead of the main cross hairs on a 200 yd target. If it drops 13.5 inches at 300 yds, you'd use the second hashmark etc.

You'll have to know how your load performs, trajectory-wise.
It can be computed using Vortex's on-line computer. But it will be only an approximation. To truly know, you'll have to shoot it at various ranges and record the drop.

Once you know what your bullet does at those ranges, you'll be able to approximate where to place your cross hairs. That's where the interpolation comes in. You'll be mentally dividing the distance between cross hairs into some useful division to allow you accommodate the true drop of your bullet.

Or, say your bullet drops only 2" at 200 yds. You dial up 1 click on your turret and the first hashmark is now set for 200 yds for your particular load. But, your main cross hairs would then be set to shoot 1/2" high at 100 yds.

You build a range card with the settings needed to dial up the correct elevation for each hashmark so they will be accurate for your particular load.

You can see that for shooting game sized targets, it will work just fine. But, if you're working paper or doing tactical ranging, you would be at a disadvantage.

As an aside, if you haven't mounted the scope yet, give Scott at Liberty Optics a call and explain your situation. Maybe he can work something out for you. Don't know if he can, but it would be worth a try.

Hope that helped. If not, I'm here frequently and there are other guys here that may be able to explain things better.

BTW - sounds like you have a great wife. She wanted to get you the best she could.
 
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What if i was taking a shot at 1000yds and off roughly 5" if I make 1click of the turret will it put me back within a 1/2min.
Question: Whats your opinion on the HS/LR vs the standard viper 6.5-20x50 if i had to choose OR should i just sell the LR {hope that don't upset the wife since it was a gift}And sit on the cash and save up for a PST for a few months{ I have not shot this gun but 3 times I'm so ready to have fun with it} As far as mounting it she when't and had it mounted at the gunsmiths along with the throw leaver and level bubble for me in all great deed being sweet not knowing we may have to return it,so yes it's been mounted for about 3wks but never shot if i choose to sell or trade i need some,people,places or sites to move it if that do become one of my only options your help has been so great thank you so much.
 
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Yup, at 1000 yds a 1/2 MOA click will move the POI 5".

Sounds like you've got the concept. As you can see, 1/2 Min clicks are pretty coarse. Fine for medium to large game animals but too coarse for more precise corrections.

Sure understand your predicament re: being a gift from your wife. Been there, too.

My choice would be to go with the PST. But, that's because it fits my type of shooting. I don't know what you plan to use your scope for. If it's hunting, you're good to go with what you have. Just learn where your bullets hit with respect to the hashmarks and you have a fast sighting system.

If you decide to go with the PST, the reticle system will be different in that you will have hashmarks at regular intervals (2MOA, 5 MOA and 10 MOA, or 1 mil, 1/2 mil and 1/10 mil). It's important to make sure your turrets match the reticle ie. MOA/MOA or Mil/Mil. Makes ranging calculations easier.

1 mil is 3.6" @ 100 yds, 1/10 mil is .36" at 100 yds.
The EBR-1 MOA reticle with it's miimum 2 MOA hashmarks I find harder to use because I have to mentally divide the space between hashmarks by 8 to get 1/4 MOA. I find I can divide the Mil marks into 10ths easier. Just me, though.

Another thing to consider is the difference between FFP and SFP scopes. The SFP reticle is calibrated at 1 magnification whereas the FFP is good at all powers.
The trade off is that the FFP reticle appears to grow and shrink with changes in magnification. It, actually, maintains the same size in proportion to the target. Whereas, the SFP reticle appears to remain the same size. In some cases, the subtension of the FFP reticle will obscure a small target.

Here are some examples of the reticle change at 3 different powers on an FFP scope. (clarity is better in the scope but hard to take a pic through)

VIPER16X_sm-1.jpg

VIPER8X_sm.jpg

VIPER4X_sm.jpg


You can see that it's pretty easy to actually range the target, knowing it's size, by measuring the distance between hashmarks.

The FFP will be a bit more expensive but the SFP has its advantages, too.

Don't know if this helps. Just got your PM. I'll get to that, now.
 
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Where were those comments made on the hide? Absolutely nothing wrong with the scope either, velocity of ur load and the bc of your bullet in a good calculator will get you close on your drops and verify with range time.

Why the need to shoot "bullseye" ? Having had both you have a better optic with the HS/LR vs the regular viper.
 
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I can see where the 1/2 moa elevation could come in handy past 300yds. I didn't see what distances you are planning to shoot so i'm not sure if it will work for you or not.

When i'm shooting past 300yds it starts taking a lot of 1/4" clicks to get where i'm trying to go when doing a 100yds at a time. (with either my .260 or .308)

As for the hide, as stated above theres some good people there but also plenty of macho know it alls as well. If someone gives you a ration of sh*t, give it right back.

If you get banned it's no big loss.
 
Originally Posted By: 1badsheeWhere were those comments made on the hide? Absolutely nothing wrong with the scope either, velocity of ur load and the bc of your bullet in a good calculator will get you close on your drops and verify with range time.

Why the need to shoot "bullseye" ? Having had both you have a better optic with the HS/LR vs the regular viper.

1badshee The cruel messages were PM to me once I was banned, but like I told the person that said that disrespectful stuff all he has to do is give me a address and i will be there IN 24HRS and i will show him a worthless {f} and please bring his family so they can see daddy/HUBBY get whipped Dirty South Style & what happens when you become a billy bad butt on a keyboard in his mothers basement and the consequences of calling people names and that way he can't go home and make up a reason why he came back home not looking the same way he left. I don't have a problem with the few great helpful people on the hide it's just the ones that no bashing rules apply to just because they have high post count. I got kicked off from being accused of inflating post but this guy can call me a WORTHLESS [F] and nothing is done now you tell me which one should be kicked off. I think it upset me so bad because my wife read it first and was upset not believing people in the world could be so cruel.BUT ANYWAY MOVING ALONG.:} I have put all this behind me from the HIDE and I'm here at predator masters now and It's all positive from here and I love these guys.
I have learned more here in the last 3day than being on the hide for almost 3months~ plus I'm more educated about what I didn't understand about optics and not to leave out I feel more confident about what I'm doing due to the guys here at predator masters.
 
Originally Posted By: bluealteredI can see where the 1/2 moa elevation could come in handy past 300yds. I didn't see what distances you are planning to shoot so i'm not sure if it will work for you or not.

When i'm shooting past 300yds it starts taking a lot of 1/4" clicks to get where i'm trying to go when doing a 100yds at a time. (with either my .260 or .308)

As for the hide, as stated above theres some good people there but also plenty of macho know it alls as well. If someone gives you a ration of sh*t, give it right back.

If you get banned it's no big loss.



I plan to shoot 300-500yd.I'm not sure if I could succeed any 1000yd hits but i would love to try.
 
Originally Posted By: SledAgent
bfr4570 said:
The scope is fine. The hide if you dont have a NF, USOptics or S&B your under scoped. Iv got NF and Us optics and I got 2 Vortex and love them. Iv got a 2.5x10x44 HS on a 300WSM pistol. Heres what it shoots.

You are SOO correct about the hide I love it here you guys really help.What scopes would you compare to your vortex.Nice shooting!

Sled Agent,

I have a Vortex Viper 6.5-20 X 44 PA with the Dead Hold reticle.

I also have a Leopold VX-111 6.5 -20 X 40 LR with the varmit hunters reticle.

Now granted, my Vortex is 1/4" clicks, BUT I like the Vortex slightly better than the Leupold, and the Vortex cost me less than one half than I paid for the Leupold.

There are members here that have forgotten more about scopes than I'll ever know. I would encourage you to keep the Vortex. It's built like a tank, and I love the glass. Down the road, I think you'd regret if you got rid of the Vortex.

I'll tell you how I set up my Vortex, and maybe the same would work for you. I may end up showing my inexperience here, and look foolish for suggesting this, but if it would help you, I'll take the risk on showing what I don't know.

I set up the Vortex using a set of Burris Signature Zee rings with the polymer inserts. You are probably familiar with how they work, but since I don't know that for sure, I'll try to explain with my limited knowledge.

You find the center of your windage and elevation turrents. i.e. on both you end up with the same number of clicks both clockwise, and counter clockwise on each turrent.

I then took the polymer offset inserts, and used the polymer offset inserts to "zero" @ 200 yds. IIRC in the field, it only took one or two clicks on both windage, and elevation, and I was on @ 200 yds.

Might the same work for you, minimizing having to use the adjustments on the scope itself.

This is where I have to bow out, and get the opinions of the guys here who really know scopes.

For those of you who really know about scopes on this site, does this idea have any merit?

It seems to my "pea brain" like it would, minimizing Sled Agents cranking on the turrets since he's got 1/2" clicks.

I'm very interested in your responses, and if it would help Sled Agent, that would be just golden !

Be nice, as I've already admitted I don't know the higher tech stuff on scopes.

Hang-Time
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How is your clarity on your Vortex Viper 6.5-20 X 44 from 15-20 power.Do you have any scope/magnification/reticle pics you can share.
Also pics w/o caps on turrets would be greatly appreciated.
 
Originally Posted By: SledAgent How is your clarity on your Vortex Viper 6.5-20 X 44 from 15-20 power.Do you have any scope/magnification/reticle pics you can share.
Also pics w/o caps on turrets would be greatly appreciated.


As I said above, I like it as well, or better the the Leupold (referring to your question about clarity 15-20).

We have most summer days near, or over 100 degrees out here, so the mirage is horrible, but it seems like I can see thru the mirage a little better with the Vortex. That may be my imagination, however.

Sled Agent, I'm sorry but I don't have one single picture of the turrets without the caps, but I like them better than on the Leupold too.

I'm disappointed no one has responded to my post above, as I would really like to know if it has merit for you. Seem to me it would. Seems the less "cranking" you're doing on the turrets, the better. and the Burris Signature Zee Rings with the offset polymer inserts ought to do that.

Please keep me posted on you course(s) of action. I'm interested in this case.

Hopefully someone(s) will respond to my post above to see if it has any merit.

BTW not that it really matters in this case, but I meant to tell you in my post above that I'm only shooting 5.56.

Hangtime
 
Hangtime sounds like you know what you are doing to me. The easier you keep it the better.

The only thing different For long range shooting. You actually are trying to get to the bottom clicks. Of the turrets range when it is zeroed. So you have more movement up.

Most of my turrets are with in a click or two of being bottomed out. Hence thats why they make 20, 30 and 40 MOA mounts.
 
Sled Agent,

Read Dr. Beanos post in the thread titled "can someone explain what return to Zero means"? Presently it's just a few threads downward from your thread.

A very good answer by Dr. Beano.

Your vortex should have this feature. Mine has this feature, and yours probably has it as well, and I really like this feature A LOT !!!!

IMHO just another one of those little extra perks that make me so fond of this scope.

Hangtime
 
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Hangtime -

I have the same style rings and you have the idea right.

SledAgent is new to the game and trying to understand scope adjustment, MOA etc. You gave him a good tip on getting more elevation control.
 
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