what would be the best coyote gun?

Dub,I dont think he aksed for best Squirrel gun! LOL!

For your terrain and mine,light AR or Sporter that you can whip around,or air one out to 300 yards.In the tight stuff a good turkey scatter gun...
 
As soon as you figure it out, you'll see a better one. There is no end to the search, although I keep thinking I'm getting closer
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. Use what you got until you figure out what it doesn't do for you then buy the next one that does it right for a price you can live with. For most this is an evolution process. I'm on my 5th "perfect" predator setup and still hoping to figure it out.
 
And it don't matter a hill of beans what we all use to kill coyotes either. When I was playing golf for a living, I would have whooped the piss out of a ball with a coffee can attached to the end of a buggy whip if it would have shaved a stroke off my score. In other words, use what works best for you.


Chupa
 
we run coyotes with dogs and the terrain varies. I've carried a 22 mag 22 hornet 22-250 and a 12 gauge. allways seem to have the wrong gun when the coyote shows up. One thing i have learned and am fixing is a low power scope with a WIDE FIELD OF VIEW IS A MUST. 1-5 power is the route i'm heading for. been using 3-9 and not working for the close up running shots. I think your scope is more important than your gun. at least that is what i'm finding out
 
I've used a lot of different weapons in a lot of different situations, so claiming ONE is best is very difficult. I've dropped dogs with a .22lr Ruger Mark II pistol, and with a .45-70 Marlin 1895, and a LOT of dogs with a 12ga of one flavor or another.

One of my favorite weapons for coyotes is a Ruger Single Six "Vaquerito" .32 H&R Mag... But that's not for everyone...

My favorite rifle right now is an AR-15. I love the 6.8SPCII, but it's dang hard to complain about the .223rem. My "go-to" rigs are always AR-15's in .223rem, even though I have a 6.8 and a .243WSSM in the safe.

The disadvantage of anything bigger than a .223rem class is the pelt damage.

Personally, I use as much scope as I can justify paying for. I have 6-24x, 6-18x, 5.5-22x, 6.5-20x, 4.5-14x, and 4-32x scopes on my coyote rifles right now (forgetting any???). It's way easier to shoot a dog at 20yrds with a 6x than it is to shoot a dog at 600yrds with a 10x. For what I do, I can see anything from 20ft to 1000yrds (haven't ever dreamed of throwing a 223 that far after a dog, but I'm creeping up on it with the .243wssm).

I like a heavy barrel, precision trigger, and a great high mag glass, then lots of ammo to practice with.
 
Everyone's perfect rifle is different. Either 12ga 3" #4 buckshot in a semiauto shotgun or a lightweight bolt action in .223 (cheap to shoot and you can buy it anywhere) with a low powered scope. That's my 2 fav's

Weev-
 
Originally Posted By: VarminterrorOne of my favorite weapons for coyotes is a Ruger Single Six "Vaquerito" .32 H&R Mag... But that's not for everyone...

Don't see that everyday...


Originally Posted By: Varminterror It's way easier to shoot a dog at 20yrds with a 6x than it is to shoot a dog at 600yrds with a 10x.

You sure about that? I've never hunted in Kasas, but I have called coyotes on both sides of it. Most dogs in those areas don't stand still for long when they get within close range of the shooter or caller. I don't know what scope you are using, but (for example) a Vortex Viper 6-24x50 has a FOV of 17.8 feet at 100 yards. Through "similar triangles" that equates to a 3.56 foot FOV at 20 yards. If a coyote is streached out running, you couldn't even get the whole dog in the scope (from nose to tail). That's going to be pretty hard to keep a moving dog in the scope! (Not to mention the FOV is only 1'@ 20 yards if a dog apears & you happen to have the scope turned all the way up to 24x) But maybee that's what the .32 is for?

Also, coyotes are plenty big enough that you can make a solid sight picture at 600 yards on 10X. However, very few hunters can hit cotyote sized targets at 600 yards with ANY power scope. It's MUCH easier to kill the close coyotes than the far ones; as long as you don't have too much scope!!!

I have plenty of high powered scopes as well, but they don't go calling much if any.

 
Originally Posted By: coleridgeOriginally Posted By: Varminterror It's way easier to shoot a dog at 20yrds with a 6x than it is to shoot a dog at 600yrds with a 10x.

You sure about that? I've never hunted in Kasas, but I have called coyotes on both sides of it. Most dogs in those areas don't stand still for long when they get within close range of the shooter or caller. I don't know what scope you are using, but (for example) a Vortex Viper 6-24x50 has a FOV of 17.8 feet at 100 yards. Through "similar triangles" that equates to a 3.56 foot FOV at 20 yards. If a coyote is streached out running, you couldn't even get the whole dog in the scope (from nose to tail). That's going to be pretty hard to keep a moving dog in the scope! (Not to mention the FOV is only 1'@ 20 yards if a dog apears & you happen to have the scope turned all the way up to 24x) But maybee that's what the .32 is for?

Also, coyotes are plenty big enough that you can make a solid sight picture at 600 yards on 10X. However, very few hunters can hit cotyote sized targets at 600 yards with ANY power scope. It's MUCH easier to kill the close coyotes than the far ones; as long as you don't have too much scope!!!

I have plenty of high powered scopes as well, but they don't go calling much if any.



Those little single sixes are pretty dang fun, so I looked for any excuse I could find to shoot them! Takes a little while to figure out a load that shoots to POA for the fixed sights AND has enough spunk and a good bullet construction to do the job downrange, but that's all part of the fun right?

As far as "too much scope" goes...

Practice at pretty much anything and you'll find you get good at it. I've been calling coyotes for over 20yrs, my first scope was a 4-16x, and I've rarely used anything lower than 6x for the last 5yrs (do have one 4.5-14x and one 4-32x that have taken a few dogs recently).

As a professional engineer, numbers on a page are a huge part of my life, but then again, I've never seen an equation that simulates how well practiced I am at target acquisition...

For short range shooting with a high mag scope, I focus with my left eye. I use my left eye for target acquisition for any and all shots. I pick the target up in my left eye, raise the rifle, put the crosshairs from my right eye's image onto the view of the target from my left eye, and then swap to my right eye. If dogs are too close, I just don't swap to my scope eye. The human brain is an amazing machine, and with a little practice, you can learn to use the fact that your brain super-imposes the images from both eyes together to your advantage. Shooting left eyed (outside of target), I can put up about 2MOA groups out to 50yrds, and 1" will kill a coyote any day of the week. (Thanks to my grandfather for teaching me that trick as a kid).

Practicing on movers sure doesn't hurt either. (Thanks again to my grandfather for teaching me how to weld, and for giving me my degree in hillbilly engineering to go with my OTHER one!)

But since I too am an avid "preacher" of the similar triangles mantra, here's my contention supporting that "hitting a dog with a 6x at 20yrds is easier than a 10x at 600yrds"...

First off, I'm not shooting at a coyote, I'm shooting at a coyote's heart, or head. A 4" heart out of a 3.56ft FOV is almost 10% of my FOV. The visible field of a human is about 100degrees, with the foveal field only covering about 10-15degrees, or about 5.23-7.85ft at 20yrds. A 5ft dog makes up MOST of the foveal field, if not all of it. Raising the rifle with my foveal field focused on the dog will help ensure (with a little practice) that my crosshairs fall within my foveal field, aka crosshairs somewhere on the dog. Taking your eyes off of your target as your raise the target (to look at the scope, or other part of the rifle) will ensure you do NOT raise the sights onto the dog. Again, I don't need to switch eyes if I don't want to just to place the shot.

I suppose I'd have a problem if the dog was so close that his 4" heart or 2" brainbox were larger than my foveal view (4" foveal view of 10degrees is just under 2ft from my eye. I'm pretty confident if my muzzle is touching a coyote, I can kill it).

Now, at the other end of the spectrum, a 3.5-10x50mm scope should have a 11-12ft FOV at 100yrds, so about 66-72ft at 600. Now say I'm trying to hit my coyote in his 4" heart: 4" at 600yrds is 1/2%, meaning if I perfectly center my crosshairs over the heart, I can only bobble 1/4% of my total FOV otherwise I miss entirely. Add to that the thickness of the crosshairs (1/4MOA), you're talking about 1.5" covered up by the crosshairs. Say I'm well practiced and can hold within half a crosshair left or right, that's 3/4", so now my 2" left or right margin for error is only about 1.25", or 0.16% of my total FOV. How's your peripheral visual accuity? Can you detect a movement of 0.16%?

In my experience, raising my rifle to within 5degrees is much easier than holding my rifle steady to within 0.16%.

Yes, I did qualify Expert with an M-16, including 600yrd shooting with A2 sights, but frankly, it just aint for me. I've never wished I had less scope.

Beyond all of that, if a dog IS "streached (stretched?) out running" at 20yrds, the bad news is that it likely means I screwed up and gave myself away, but the good news is that if he's running at 20yrds and for whatever reason I can't get a shot on him, he'll quite quickly be farther away.
 
You also have to keep in mind that running dogs are ALWAYS harder to hit at close range, no matter what scope or sights you're using...

Obviously if a dog runs straight away from you, you don't have to hold over left or right (except for wind). The much harder shot is a dog running "across you".

So say a dog is running 20mph (not flat getting it, but not just trotting) at 20yrds. 20yrds should be a "gimme shot" standing still, except that at 20yrds, he's traversing 26 degrees per second.

Now stretch him out to 300yrds, that's only 1.86 degrees per second. You barely have to move the rifle, giving you a more stable shot and less rate of change to give you time to eyeball your lead (either method you use).

I wouldn't say it's difficult to shoot running dogs at 20yrds because of the sights/scope you have, I'd just say it's flat hard to shoot running dogs at close range.
 
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I have never thought I had to spellcheck or needed to share this on the internet to qualify myself (or for whatever reason you needed to), but I too am a Professional Engineer, licensed right here in NC (I can give you my PE# if that further validates me
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). I have hunted much longer than 20 years & also have “hillbilly engineering to go with my OTHER one”, but… you got me here; I don’t weld that much… I do shoot A BUNCH though.

Since we know our life stories now, I will add a little to your points. Target acquisition up close is a tough thing for some people (it's caused by small FOV). Yes keeping both eyes open INCREASING YOUR FOV, (your making my point for me) is one good way to get you “on-target”. Those with great hand-eye coordination are pretty good at it too. Also, shooting shotgun sports, particularly sporting clays with greatly different target presentations will also help greatly getting that “amazing machine” to take over (we call it being instinctive) for pointing your weapon (although not everyone always "gets it").

From your information… after you acquire/find your target (using your much larger FOV out of the scope), you close your left & then are only visual through the scope. The problem (yes only a problem if it’s moving, which is by far the majority of time for a responding coyote) is that in a split second the coyote is out of a small field of view (most hunters do not know exactly where a coyote is going so they can track him every moment being “zoomed in”). Then it’s back to both eyes open & acquisition, then a super small FOV again & in a split second out of scope again… (do you see where this is going).

I’m not much into spray & pray but I have killed several critters in a trot & dead run (although seldom hit them square in their 4" little heart). With a wide FOV it’s MUCH easier to track the animal in the scope (this is very helpful for producing high percentage shots), that’s why you think it’s “easier” to hit moving dogs further out (you keep them in the scope). Trust me, hitting running dogs is much easier at 20 yards than 300 yards. For the SAME reason it’s also easier to hit static (I used that word just for you) dogs at 20 yards than at 300.

Engineers get caught up in the numbers sometimes (I’m guilty of it too). At times you just have to step back & look at the whole picture. Do you really think you are capable of hitting a 4” circle at 600 yards in field conditions, from field positions? Do you have a rifle that will hold .65MOA to distance? You are holding the rifle just as still weather it’s a 10x scope or 60x scope. More scope doesn't make you shoot better. Also look back at you description of “degrees per second” movement of a coyote at 20 yards v/s 300 yards. Any flawed thought in that??? Do you really think it’s easier to hit a moving target at 300 v/s up close? Not to mention the compound compensation needed to get to 300 yards.

Maybe you are an exception to the rule? Anybody that can shoot 1” groups at 50 yards without looking through the scope is ( I REALLY got to call Bull Chit on that one) !!!! But for the normal hunter, he will be much better served with a lower power scope. Stop fumbling around & kill the ones in range.


 
Originally Posted By: Chupathingy My opinion alone, but a coyote shot at 500 yards is not a "Called" coyote. Unless ofcourse it's shot running away from you.

Chupa

Just try our flat, open farm ground where the coyotes almost always circle down wind at least 1/4 mile away and you might just change your mind. Plus this is about predator "hunting" and callin isn't the only game in town.

As for the perfect beginners coyote gun? Whatever gun you already have including rimfires, shotguns and/or moose guns if that's what it takes to get started. Do not, and I repeat do not, go out and buy a new coyote specific gun for many, many hunters watch videos of coyote hunts, think it looks fun, go out and spend thousands on gear, make a few stands and learn it's far from a sure thing and give it up.

Buy a $10 hand call and grab your favorite gun and when/if you start seeing critters then start thinkin about a new gun and more gear.

CB
 
Originally Posted By: Chris_BriceAs for the perfect beginners coyote gun? Whatever gun you already have including rimfires, shotguns and/or moose guns if that's what it takes to get started. Do not, and I repeat do not, go out and buy a new coyote specific gun for many, many hunters watch videos of coyote hunts, think it looks fun, go out and spend thousands on gear, make a few stands and learn it's far from a sure thing and give it up.

Buy a $10 hand call and grab your favorite gun and when/if you start seeing critters then start thinkin about a new gun and more gear.

CB

Good advice. It's easier to shoot the smaller calibers better (they don't beat you to death & usually are flatter shooting) but a deer rifle will kill coyotes just fine. Some guys learn to shoot them just as well too. Shoot whatever rifle you have off of whatever you will be using in the field. Find out what range you hold "minute of coyote" (some people here thinks it 4" evidently), & try to get them inside of that. Getting a coyote in front of you is much harder part of the equation than rifle selection.
 
Originally Posted By: coleridge
Maybe you are an exception to the rule? Anybody that can shoot 1” groups at 50 yards without looking through the scope is!


It all got kinda confusing for my simple mind, but is that what this was saying?

Originally Posted By: Varminterror
For short range shooting with a high mag scope, I focus with my left eye. I use my left eye for target acquisition for any and all shots. I pick the target up in my left eye, raise the rifle, put the crosshairs from my right eye's image onto the view of the target from my left eye, and then swap to my right eye. If dogs are too close, I just don't swap to my scope eye. The human brain is an amazing machine, and with a little practice, you can learn to use the fact that your brain super-imposes the images from both eyes together to your advantage. Shooting left eyed (outside of target), I can put up about 2MOA groups out to 50yrds

If so, it's another one of those things I would need to see to believe. That would be quite a talent.
 
Originally Posted By: Varminterror
For short range shooting with a high mag scope, I focus with my left eye. I use my left eye for target acquisition for any and all shots. I pick the target up in my left eye, raise the rifle, put the crosshairs from my right eye's image onto the view of the target from my left eye, and then swap to my right eye. If dogs are too close, I just don't swap to my scope eye. The human brain is an amazing machine, and with a little practice, you can learn to use the fact that your brain super-imposes the images from both eyes together to your advantage. Shooting left eyed (outside of target), I can put up about 2MOA groups out to 50yrds
Using my "Engineering Judgment" (for whatever that is worth on a shooting forum
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)... that's what I'm reading. One he!! of a feat if you ask me. Maybe I will just sit back & learn from here on out
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. No telling what he could do looking down the rib of that .32 pistol with his dominat eye!!!
 
From the stand point of a "Logistical Engineer" This is a bunch of B.S

If you are right eye dominant, then your left eye serves as depth perception.

Might want to try out for that Impossible Shots T.V show.
 
Originally Posted By: coleridge…after you acquire/find your target (using your much larger FOV out of the scope), you close your left & then are only visual through the scope.

...Anybody that can shoot 1” groups at 50 yards without looking through the scope is [an exception to the rule]...

You mistake what I'm saying. I shoot with both eyes open. On any shot I ever take, I'm watching the target in my left eye as I raise the rifle, then I simply swap my focus from my left eye to my right eye. Sure, it shifts my foveal focus into the scope, which inhibits my view (blocked by the scope), but no, it's NOT the same thing as closing my left eye. Why would I have to close my eye to look through a scope?

The technique I described for close range shots is not " shooting without looking through the scope", it's just using the super-imposition of the scope image overlaid onto the image from my left eye to my advantage. It's NOT the same as "not looking through the scope, not by a long shot. It does take a lot of practice, because you don't have the focus in the scope to pick up on shadows ringing the scope on one side or the other as readily, but it's not a difficult technique to master (can't be too hard if I have it figured out).

In all fairness, at 20yrds, no scope is "great". A 6.5-20x50mm has about a 3ft FOV at 20yrds, a 3.5-10x50mm will only have 6ft, even a 1.5-5x20mm will only have 10ft. Close is close, and they're going to fill up a scope, pretty much no matter what you're using. I'm not suggesting anyone put a T-36 or a fixed 40x, or even an 8-32x on their coyote rig, but for my use, I'd much rather spend a little more time practicing close range target acquisition and use a 6.5-20x or 6-24x than be stuck trying to smack a dog at 400-600yrds with a 10x...

Now, obviously both can work, you've taken a lot of dogs with low powers, I've taken a lot of dogs with high powers, but saying one is decidedly advantageous in all cases isn't necessarily fair.

For what it's worth, not everyone is created equal for target acquisition. It baffles me how men can shoot asprin's or bottle caps out of the air, and I've seen a video of a hog hunter over in Europe that drops sprinting boars with a scoped rifle so fast that it makes me drool, but I suppose I practice target acquisition more than most. I know my times to first shot aren't very long (cowboy action, action pistol, and 3gun over different years). Maybe it's just easier for me, so I can get away with it.
 
I believe that the phenomenon you are talking about is something a kin to ambidexterity or the ability to switch hit, meaning, not every body has it or it is severely under developed. The reason I say that is because I understand completely what you are talking about, because I can do it too. But, when I try to explain the ability to others, I fall on my face in the explaining of it, and often get the same type of response that Coleridge exhibited.

Coleridge, buddy I'm not saying anything derogatory about you bro! You know you're my boy. What he's talking about is difficult to explain(atleast it is for an idiot like me). I used to use a fixed 10x for coyote hunting and could easily pick up close movers. The best way I can explain it is, the reticle just found them.

Chupa
 


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