would you build on a mauser 98 action?

I have two .25-06 rifles that were built on Mauser 98 actions, One Belgian Mauser in 6mm Remington, one Mexican Mauser in .244 Remington, and one .257 Ackley Improved that was built on a Mexican Mauser action. Do I like Mausers? Yes I guess that I do.
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Originally Posted By: Rich CronkI have two .25-06 rifles that were built on Mauser 98 actions, One Belgian Mauser in 6mm Remington, one Mexican Mauser in .244 Remington, and one .257 Ackley Improved that was built on a Mexican Mauser action. Do I like Mausers? Yes I guess that I do.
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If it's a nice prewar or early wartime production (or, God forbid, a commercial FN), I would do it in a flash - I have a spoon handle, full stock Mauser that I will take to my grave.


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I too have a .257 AI, mine is on a VZ 24 model 98 mauser action. I built a kids gun, I have three sons and wanted a youth sized gun that wouldn't intimidate them with heavy recoil and once they out grew it, the next boy would be ready to start using it. I put an ER Shaw #1 barrel and a Boyd's Bold trigger on it, cut an inch off the synthetic Ram-Line stock to lower the length of pull. It also sports the Rapid Reticle scope to make holdover a no-brainer for inexperienced shooters. I had a 'smith friend of my do the Duracoat finish.
 
This is a .308 that is built on a Steyr-Mauser action...While not a '98, it's pretty close and the bolt safety has been re worked to allow use with a scope..

This has a Parker-Hale M2 Sniper barrel with a Timney trigger that has been retuned to ounces instead of pounds...Action is pillar bedded and blue printed in a Boyd stock..

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Here's mine that I had done to a K98, it was a number match chech captured that was 8 mm. It's 308 now.
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It had the receiver all squared, lapped lugs, and had the stripper clip hump milled off to drill and tap for a scope base, replaced shroud with a commercial and put a 2lb timney in. Had it bedded also in a boyds thumb hole
 
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A lot depends on the individual action, both manufacturer, date of manufacture, and condition. Another consideration is what cartridge you plan to use it with. These days a big concern is how much it's going to cost you to get it drilled and tapped, bolt handle bent or replaced, and a scope safety. With the cost of a Stevens 200 or Savage Axis as low as they are, you need to be able to get the sporterizing work done for free (or darn close) in order to come out ahead on the deal.

Several years ago one of the big milsurp distributors was selling M98/22 Czech Mausers for cheap - around $60 as I recall. I bought a bunch and built two sporters - a .257 Roberts and a .257 Weatherby, kept one with a new barrel and pretty stock as-issued, and sold the rest. Those were really clean Brno actions and I got most of the work done for free, so they were worth it. I also had a Mark X commercial Mauser rebarreled to .35 Whelen. It came with a nice walnut stock, hinged floorplate and adjustable trigger, and of course was already drilled and tapped for scope use.
 
Like Terry N. stated in his first paragraph, cartridge choice and the cost of getting the action into a workable form is what determines if building on a Mauser action is a good idea.
 
I have built 4 mausers over the years. Two are .338 win on VZ-24 actions dated 1937 that I use here in Alaska for heavy stuff. One 7x57 on VZ-24 with #1 profile 20 inch barrel that weighs 5/13 with scope that I use for sheep. One 7x57 on a 1948 Yugo short action with a 20 in FN barrel circa 1951 intended for the Venezuelan Biathlon Olympic Team..hand lapped and polished at FN in Belgium... I don't know what I'll do with it.
I had all actions heat treated by modern methods. All were rebarreled. On .338's, bolt faces had to be hogged out to fit cartridge bases, upper rail of actions had to be relieved extensively for feeding to work, magazines had to be reworked for proper feeding. On all 4, bolts were polished and lugs were hand lapped, then surface hardened. Firing pins and springs were replaced with faster,lighter units. Triggers were either replaced with Timney, or reworked for smooth single stage pull (like butter). Safeties were altered or replaced to lighten pressures. Bolt handles were all forged to longer slender butterknife shape to reduce weight and allow gloved hand operation. Then drilling and tapping and replacing some parts. Then polishing and bluing. Then stocking and bedding (most important for a mauser). And then the little details. An old gunsmith did the heat-treating, bolt facing, and headspaced the chamber. I did all the rest, and it took time.

That being said, these guns work. No question as to whether an extractor will break or a firing pin break or a trigger not work or a safety not come off when needed. They are all more accurate than I can shoot. Over the years, I have had 3 very close-quarter brown bear confrontations and I'm still here.

Would I sell any one of my mausers ? NO !! Would I build any one of them again today ? Probably not. You can now buy over the counter almost anything that you want... a lot cheaper than you can build your mauser. And parts for mausers aren't as available as they used to be. And the old gunsmiths who know mausers are mostly gone. And I'm older too.

On the other hand, If you really like guns, and want to get up close and personal .... you won't ever like another rifle as much as you like your mauser. They are kind of the essence of what it all is about

Good luck
 
I was going to contribute my 2 cents worth to this thread till I got to October's reply. October pretty much covered any comment I'd make. By the way, have at least 6 rifles built on mauser actions.
 
As October said: "On the other hand, If you really like guns, and want to get up close and personal .... you won't ever like another rifle as much as you like your mauser. They are kind of the essence of what it all is about"

That is as well made point as any I have seen in a while. Don't do a Mauser build because its cheap or whatever, do it for the love of the gun, the love of the work, the experience. "shooters" are cheap and plentiful, Mausers, not so much any more.
 
I've owned a 257 Roberts built on a small ring 98 and built a 35 Whelen on a large ring 98. I'm currently shooting a sporterized Israeli 7.62 Mauser on a Czech action. I shoot left handed, but don't hesitate to buy/build/shoot Mauser actions. It's always time for another, plus you get the history of surplus Mauser actions.
 
I have two Mausers. One is a .257 Roberts. Will go to the grave with me....Well one of my boys will end up with it.
Number two...Was a 7x57. Now it's my long range coyote killer. Chambered in a 22-243 Win. Holding a Shilen 26inch tube and the steel is wrapped around a Fajen dark hardwood stock. Both are German Large rings M98s too. Would I buy/build another ? Without a doubt...YES I would. One of the strongest actions made. When I had my 22-243 built my smith told me that these actions are almost like toolsteel hard. FWIW....
 
Originally Posted By: vmax_blasterI can pick up a mauser 98 action for almost nothing, would it be worth building on? does anybody have any builds on a 98 action?

Yeah, I might do it......
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The above rifle is a 30-06. I took my first buck with it a long time ago. I had it reblued about 8-10 years ago and don't recall ever using it since. The bluing on it is fantastic, as is the feel of the stock.

I've also owned custom 98s chambered in 25-06, 257 Bob, and 7x57. But they are no longer around. The '06 above was the pick of the litter and I'll never let it go.....
 


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