Zero range

B

boomer68

New member
Not sure if this has been discussed already, but what range do folks zero their rifle at? Do you go with 1.5 or 2" high at 100yds?
 
boomer68 said:
Not sure if this has been discussed already, but what range do folks zero their rifle at? Do you go with 1.5 or 2" high at 100yds?
Click to expand...

Saying 1.5" or 2" high at 100 yds doesn't really say what range the rifle is zeroed for. Site height and trajectory could result in quite a bit of difference in zero range for the same 100 yard POI.

I've always used MPBR. And had hot rods built to increase MPBR.

- DAA
 
I zero at 100. I don't do the one inch high at a hundred. I started getting into long range stuff and all the apps I use are set for my rifles to be zero at one hundred. One day I will have a dedicated rifle for calling and one for long range. For now, they are one in the same for the most part.
 
boomer68 said:
Not sure if this has been discussed already, but what range do folks zero their rifle at? Do you go with 1.5 or 2" high at 100yds?
Click to expand...
for something that I dial and use turrets on, I like a genuine bonifide 200 yard zero. That means actually shooting it at 200 yards. Ideally I shoot it to 400 and 500 as well and that might reveal I need a click here or there, which at lesser distances a click even a couple clicks means nothing. I also might play around with the firing solution to match what I have seen in practice. with older chronographs maybe I adjust the speed 10-20 fps, so I get a match.

with AR's I sight those 1" high at 100 yards. they have a sight height of 3" and if you site in higher it could put you too high at medium distances at say 175 to 180 yards. or higher than you wanna be for say a coyote. varmint no dialing rigs I typically also sight in at 1" high at 100 yards.

non dialing coyote rifle bolt guns? 1.5" high at 100 yards, which is pretty close to a 225 ish yard zero.
 
DAA said:
Saying 1.5" or 2" high at 100 yds doesn't really say what range the rifle is zeroed for.
Click to expand...
I agree with this. I always used to want to be 1"-1 1/2" high at 100 for most all of my big game rifles. Depending on caliber, it was just what everyone did with the idea that you'd be good out to 200. I now get everything zeroed right at 100 yards. With readily available ballistic charts on my phone, CDS dials, MIL dots on reticles and the list goes on, it doesn't make sense to me to not have my scope dead on at 100 yards in order to utilize those things. I believe all of that stuff works if used properly. I do think some of the "high at 100 yards" stuff comes from just not having the the means to shoot at 200 yards. I think a 200 yard zero would be very useful in some instances if I had the ability to shoot that far at my home range.
 
The rifle in question is a .22-250 and has a B&L 6-24x40 scope. Primarily will be used for coyotes and possibly longer range gopher gun. Have a 17 HMR for shorter range.
 
Type your info into a ballistics calculator and look at your trajectory. You will have a near and far zero. With my one thermal without built in ballistics on a 22-250 , my near and far are 50 yards and 250 yards. Anything out to 300 is a dead hold on a coyote. Sight in at 50 yards or whatever your near zero is , is a heck of a lot easier than trying to get zeroed in at distance. Scope height is an important number in your calculator btw and will be a big factor in your zero distance. Mine sits at 2.5” above the bore.

Last time I swapped the scope from a rimfire back to the 22-250 I shot once at 50 yards , adjusted and shot again and was on the money. One more shot to confirm and off hunting I went. One coyote dropped that night was at 277 yards. Really can’t get much easier than that.
 
I like to zero/hold on fur at 200 with most of my rifles and check impact at 50 and 100. I do zero/hold on fur my 22-250AI at 300 running 52gr bullets, same for the 22-204 with 40gr and the 20P with 32gr. Then check at all ranges between. I don't use turrets or compensating reticles.
 
Back
Top