Zero range

I used to do the 1" to 1 1/2 " at 100 yards, but I only hunt called coyotes. I noticed that if I missed i always shot over. So I went back to right on at 100 because most of my called coyotes are under 200 yards.
 
100 yd zero. Ballistic calc says 2" max error for my ammo at any distance I shoot. Got an Athlon chrony and tried it yesterday. 5 shots, ES=8, 1/4" POI.
IMG_0492.JPG
 
I do 100 yrs zeros on scopes and Reddots it’s simple for me, never changes. 100 yrs zeros will put a good shot in a coyote @ 200 yds. I’ve killed squirrels out to 240 yds with my 24” 223 shooting 53 Vmax with 100yds zero and no hold over. Doesn’t really matter how you do it. I think it’s better to try one you like and stick with it
 
Last edited:
crapshoot said:
What ever distance you zero, put an X on the ground at that distance. Even Wile E. Coyote knows X marks the spot and will stop to check it out.
Click to expand...

Dammit Lance... If you are going to give away secrets like that we're going to have to put you on Double Secret Probation! What's next, you are going to tell everyone the secret sound? Tell everyone which brand of cigar smoke draws in coyote like moths to a flame? Tell everyone what the Yappers are saying? Have some discretion man!

- DAA
 
If you’re truly “zeroing “ a rifle you want as many factors removed as possible. So the answer is 100. If you think your zeroing at 200 your just introducing another 100 yards of variability. You really want to know what your rifle is doing, not your shooting ability. Zero at 100, then you know. If you want it to be at 200, dial for that range after you know your rifles on, shoot to confirm, and leave it there to hunt
 
Whatever your chosen zero is, memorize the drop tables for your load out to as far as you are going to shoot, and your in the ballpark.

If you can actually shoot at those longer ranges to verify your loads drop, all the better.

Typically, with a 200yd zero, the drop from 300yds to 400yds doubles.
 
The three bolt rifles I use for calling, in .17, .20 and .24 calibers all have very similar trajectories. Two are zeroed for 275 yards, one for 290 yards. Gives them all a MPBR on a 4" diameter target of 325-330 yards. From muzzle to ~325 yards, same point of aim. If I'm looking at a coyote through the scope and thinking hold over, my next thought is usually (but not always), don't bother to shoot.

- DAA
 
Littlebuf said:
If you’re truly “zeroing “ a rifle you want as many factors removed as possible. So the answer is 100. If you think your zeroing at 200 your just introducing another 100 yards of variability. You really want to know what your rifle is doing, not your shooting ability. Zero at 100, then you know. If you want it to be at 200, dial for that range after you know your rifles on, shoot to confirm, and leave it there to hunt
Click to expand...

Bigwood said:
I zero everything at 100y. I have quite a few rifles of all types and it keeps things easier for me.
Click to expand...
Zero @ 100, verify each rifle, tape verified drops to stock and lean on:
1791480899018.png
1791481002834.png


or: (Coyotes seldom allow enough time for dialing scope in brush country).
1791483153285.png
 
DAA said:
The three bolt rifles I use for calling, in .17, .20 and .24 calibers all have very similar trajectories. Two are zeroed for 275 yards, one for 290 yards. Gives them all a MPBR on a 4" diameter target of 325-330 yards. From muzzle to ~325 yards, same point of aim. If I'm looking at a coyote through the scope and thinking hold over, my next thought is usually (but not always), don't bother to shoot.

- DAA
Click to expand...

That is what my MPBR used to do. around 350, I could align the crosshairs with the top of their back, and it would drop right into them.
 
Here's another in yards, MOA elevation, MOA wind:

K4Ex2Bj.jpg


Typical hunting chart, my 6x47 Lapua with a 200 zero:

HThxNbv.jpg
 
jmeddy said:
See what l mean by novice, i was figurin inches. I cant see that far let alone shoot😊
Click to expand...
That is one of my prairie dog rigs, of which all of them having the same Vortex scope, all are FFP in mils. I avoided both FFP & mils for years, but they really do work well for prairie dogging. The reticle has a hash mark at every half mil, which corresponds almost perfect for every 50 yards in a normal 223 load for holding, no dialing needed.

Every other rifle I use for hunting is a "normal" SFP with MOA.
 
Back
Top