Rem-Age Project...Tell me the pros and cons

S

shelton573

Active member
Typically I put together rifles based off of savage actions due to being able to do the work myself in the shop. I recently started throwing around the idea of using a Remington 700 action with a Criterion Rem-Age barrel and Northland nut and lug. I am a huge fan of savage rifles, but the reason for the Remington is the stock and aftermarket part selection for Remington actions. The plan would be to buy one of the cheap package 700s from Walmart or a used rifle and do the work myself. I already have the tools to put it back together, I just need the Remington wedge for the action wrench. I just have a couple questions below that I am hoping to get some help with.

For those who have done it or researched it, what are the main pros and cons?
Does the barrel and action properly mate up without having to be trued?
Do I have to notch the action to fit the Northland recoil lug?
What all prep work needs to be done to the action to make everything fit?
Are the new package 700 actions sufficient or should I look for an older used model?

Any info is much appreciated!
 
You can use the original Rem Rem lug and you can purchase a jig that bolts to the front action screw hole to hold the lug in alignment while tightening.

The only draw back is seeing the nut and the inletting around the shank of the barrel will be a little loose.

I'm going to have to rebarrel my Rem 721 one of these days and I think I'm going to go with the Remage system. I did it a number of years ago with a take-off LVSF barrel.
 
Last edited:
I burnt the barrel out of my factory 22-250 R700 so i got a Rem-Age Mcgowen 26" 9 twist 22-250 from Northland back in 2009 i think it was. Bought the .25" recoil lug and the barrel come with the barrel nut.
Piece o cake. I cleaned the threads and trued the action on a lathe. Threaded the new barrel on and head spaced it with some full length sized brass that i had fired in the old barrel.
Cleaned the barrel and broke it in. Used it for a couple years in 600 yard F-Class shooting 80gr Bergers at 3200 FPS. I would do 1.875-2" 3 shot groups consistently at 600 yards. Won a few gold medals with it.
Now that the barrel is pretty worn i use it for deer hunting and varmints.

Debating a fast twist 243 barrel for it now.
 
Last edited:
I am debating this right now myself for a build. I like the idea of savages barrel nuts and able to do barrel changes yourself. I think a true and time blueprint job would need to be done on the Remington because they don't have a floating bolt head like the savages. Now how does the barrel fit in the stock with the barrel nut vs the regular Remington barrel?
 
Originally Posted By: zr600 Now how does the barrel fit in the stock with the barrel nut vs the regular Remington barrel?

I am wondering this myself. Forgot to throw that question in. I am assuming you would have to do some dremel work???
 
Originally Posted By: fw707I put one together a while back and made the mistake of selling it.
cry.gif


Here's a link to the ad I had in the classifieds with a little info on the gun:

http://www.predatormastersforums.com/for...228#Post2917228

A buddy had the tools and a go gauge and he did the installation for me-no action work at all.
I bought a Wally World ADL for the action and the CBI barrel kit from McRee.

So no truing and blueprint involved? (I assume that's what you mean by no action work but just want to clarify)
 
Originally Posted By: shelton573
So no truing and blueprint involved? (I assume that's what you mean by no action work but just want to clarify)

Nope, no action work at all.
He just removed the factory barrel, cleaned up the receiver threads, and set the head spacing with a go gauge. He used the new recoil lug that came with the kit, but he didn't drill the receiver for the set screw they include in the lug.
 
AWS said:
You can use the original Rem Rem lug and you can purchase a jig that bolts to the front action screw hole to hold the lug in alignment while tightening.
quote]

Northland sells a wedge system for the Remington recoil lug that holds it in place in their action wrench (I already have the wrench). If you are familiar with this, does it do the same thing you are referring to with the jig? With that action wrench, it bolts into the first action hole so I am assuming the jig wouldn't fit. I plan on call Jim and discussing with him but just curious if you have any info on it before I call him.

The top picture is the "wedge" I am referring to.
http://northlandshooterssupply.com/tools/
Click to expand...
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeJeff, The set screw working as a pinned recoil lug ?

Yes.

I got the kit here:

http://shop.mcreesprecision.net/BARREL-SYSTEMS-KITS-PARTS_c491.htm

The shank and muzzle had the cleanest threading I've ever seen. The finish inside and outside was excellent and load development was simple from the start.

If I had the extra $$ available I'd buy another one right now, but my meager fun money fund is earmarked for another project right now.
cry.gif
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeJeff, The set screw working as a pinned recoil lug ?

Yes.

I got the kit here:

http://shop.mcreesprecision.net/BARREL-SYSTEMS-KITS-PARTS_c491.htm

If I had the extra $$ available I'd but another one right now, but my meager fun money fund is earmarked for another project right now.
cry.gif


So the screw screws into the face of the action to hold the lug in place? I'm not very Remington savvy so I don't know much about how they hold their recoil lug...I am just a basic savage guy hah
 
Originally Posted By: shelton573Originally Posted By: zr600 Now how does the barrel fit in the stock with the barrel nut vs the regular Remington barrel?

I am wondering this myself. Forgot to throw that question in. I am assuming you would have to do some dremel work???

I put a Magpul 700 Hunter stock on mine and it has plenty of room.
 
Shelton....
Rem just uses a jig to hold the recoil lugs in place when assembled. Guys that plan on replacing barrels on the 700's will use an aftermarket recoil lug (pinned) The front of the action will need to be drilled for a pin to keep the lug in the same place,barrel after barrel.

The 700 action clones (Stiller, etc..) are already set up that way.
 
Shelton, if I remember correctly the end of the set screw was like a pin that goes into an unthreaded hole drilled in the receiver. The recoil lug is threaded and the Allen head set screw tightens up through the lug until the unthreaded end seats into the hole in the face of the action.
Factory Remington actions are not drilled for the pin. Some gunsmiths drill the action and pin a lug when installing a new barrel. Most custom actions are already drilled and have a pin included with them.
The CBI lug gives you the option, but you can just take the screw out and do the job without it as long as you have a way to keep the lug and action indexed correctly as everything screws together.

Yep, Tim already covered it.
thumbup1.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: fw707Shelton, if I remember correctly the end of the set screw was like a pin that goes into an unthreaded hole drilled in the receiver. The recoil lug is threaded and the Allen head set screw tightens up through the lug until the unthreaded end seats into the hole in the face of the action.
Factory Remington actions are not drilled for the pin. Some gunsmiths drill the action and pin a lug when installing a new barrel. Most custom actions are already drilled and have a pin included with them.
The CBI lug gives you the option, but you can just take the screw out and do the job without it as long as you have a way to keep the lug and action indexed correctly as everything screws together.

Yep, Tim already covered it.
thumbup1.gif


Thanks for the info guys. After reading further on the taper loc wedge from Northland, he states that it eliminates the need to notch or drill the pin hole so I would say that is the route I will go. It will continue paying for itself with future builds I would think.
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top